After yesterday’s tough walk, through the deep and unrelenting sand, we were looking forward to a slightly more gentle day, today.
We would be walking from Vila Nova De Milfontes, a relatively short distance, to the village of Almograve, and were determined to slow down and simply enjoy the walk.
There are 2 options at the start of the day. One is to walk out of the town, along the road and crossing a river bridge, but the other is to take a little ferry.
We immediately decided to take the ferry, just 5e each, and a little boat trip to start the day. It sounded perfect.
We had also decided to get an earlier start, which would allow us to walk in the cool and to enjoy the trail, before it got too busy. So we quickly packed our bags and wandered up into town to a bakery, where we sat with a coffee & possibly the biggest cinnamon roll, we’ve ever seen (saving one for a second breakfast, on the trail).
Vila Nova de Milfontes is a pretty little town, with beautifully painted houses, the blue window-surrounds adding a cheerful splash of colour.
We ambled down to the little jetty, passing lots of street cats that were being fed by local residents, taking a moment to say hello to a few that relished the attention
After buying our tickets, we hopped onto the little boat, which took us across the estuary..
.. it was the perfect way to start the day’s walk.
Stepping off, we picked up the markers for the path, and set off along a little road, before turning, to follow a sandy trail towards the coast; our long shadows stretching out, in the low, morning sun
Before long, we found ourselves above the beach, with stunning views along the coast…
It was clearly going to be another beautiful day’s walk.
With only about 12km between the 2 villages, we risked being there well before lunchtime, so decided to take long breaks, sit in the sun and simply enjoy the views and the sound of the sea. Yesterday’s walk had been long, and hard & we hadn’t felt able to stop for any length of time, so were determined to make the most of the opportunity, today.
It wasn’t long, before we found a spot above a little bay, where we dropped our rucksacks onto the sandy clifftop, and sat down. It was a beautiful little place, and the constant rumble of the waves, hitting the rocks and washing back off the beach, soon relaxed us.
A twenty minute stop turned into nearly an hour, and the time slipped easily past, as we watched a fisherman placing his pots off-shore….
…and the clouds shifting shape, as they were buffeted around in the breeze.
It was idyllic, and we could have spent even longer there, but the day was already starting to pass us by.
The route followed the coast, with the path (at times) feeling as if it was clinging on to the edge, and in one place, seemed to have slipped away a little…
In the main, we were walking in sand, yet somehow it didn’t seem as deep, or as slippery, as yesterday. Once again, we were pleased we had our gaiters on, as our shoes would have been full of sand, without them.
At times, the path took a route through shrubs, bamboo and other little trees, which somehow seemed to grow happily in the sand.
The paths here were covered in leaves, making it easier to walk on, although there were lots of trip hazards, thanks to the unruly roots!
As soon as we emerged, back onto the coast, we stopped again for lunch. As I said, this was going to be a slow day, and we were going to make the most of it.
We sat, high above a beach, and laid back in the sun, just listening to the sea, and the birds. There was no phone signal, nothing to disturb us, and it was bliss. In today’s world, we’re always being distracted by something, or have things to get on with, yet this lunchtime, there was nothing.
The sound of the sea, the feeling of the sand below my back, and the sense of the gentle breeze on my skin was delightful, and I have no idea quite how long we were there, but I could have stayed longer.
The path today took us over sand dunes
Through sharp beds of rock
And past stunning little coves
It was spectacular, and the colour of the sea, in the bright afternoon sun was picture-postcard perfect.
Before long, we were on the final approach to Almograve, where the rocks behind the beach looked as if a giant had been folding them, like sheets of paper. It reminded us both of the dramatic rock formations at Millook, in North Cornwall..
We arrived in the town through a carpet of Hottentot Figs, which had covered the dunes too. When they are in flower, it really must be an amazing sight.
Even with our lengthy stops, it was not quite 2pm, so we walked through to the beach, and sat in the bar, overlooking the sea, having a beer, while we waited to be able to get into our hotel.
It was such a beautiful spot that we have been back this evening, for supper, and to watch the sunset.
It was a stunning evening and a delightful end to a lovely day’s walk.
Tomorrow is a longer day again, so we’re aiming for an early start. It sounds as if it will be a dramatic stage, with sea-stacks and stork nests ( and as I understand, some more sand too!)
Hard to believe that will be our 4th day already. This is going to be over, before we know it!
