After yesterday’s long day, we collapsed into bed and slept like logs, not moving until almost 7am, which for us, is almost unheard of. We must have needed the sleep.
We had been staying in a lovely place, which included breakfast, so we wandered down for a little something, before we headed off. The little something we imagined, turned into the best breakfast we’ve ever had, with honey & orange-scented porridge, homemade sourdough and spelt bread & local honey & preserves too. It was divine and set us up perfectly for what was to be quite a challenging day ahead.
We had read that today’s stage would be sandy, and had experienced some sandy areas yesterday, but it had simply been a little ‘amuse-bouche’ for today, where we spent almost all of the 19km, walking through deep, slippery sand.
With that in mind, we strapped on our sand-gaiters, hoping that they may keep the worst of the sand out, pulled on our rucksacks, and set off.
A lot of walkers start their adventures at Porto Covo, so when we walked out towards the trail, we found ourselves in a snake of other hikers, all making their way out from the little town. It was like Brighton on a Bank Holiday, and it was definitely rush-hour, with everyone keen to get going for a 20km stage along leg-sapping, sandy paths.
We wandered down past the little harbour, and then climbed the rocks, onto the path, joining a crocodile of walkers that stretched into the distance. It was always to be expected, but after the peace of yesterday, it felt very strange, even though we knew it wouldn’t be long before the groups split apart, and we would be on our own again.
We followed the path, which cut across the sandy cliffs, with jaw-dropping views along the coast, in the direction we were heading. It was clear that it was going to be a spectacular day’s walking, and we’d only just started.
In many ways, yesterday’s stage taught us a lot. We had a taste of walking on sand, and also had vowed never to pass a bar or café , without stopping. We can only carry so much fluid with us, so had decided to never pass up the chance to have a drink!
We headed across the cliffs, catching sight of a castle in the distance and a ruined fort, on an island, just out to sea. The castle had been built in the 16th century to defend the coast from English pirates, and the island, out to sea had been fortified, since the Carthaginians, in the 3rd century.
It was a stunning sight, as we walked across the beach…
… taking the opportunity to stop at the beach café, for a rather nice, iced drink. We couldn’t quite believe how sweaty we were already – we’d only just started!
Refreshed, we headed on again, and simply enjoyed the views, which kept stopping us in our tracks.
It was a truly beautiful walk, which was good, as it kept us distracted from the deep sand that we were walking through.
Yesterday was just a taster, as today it felt as if we were simply walking across sand dunes. It would be wrong of me to say that walking across the sand was easy. It really wasn’t, as for every step forward, we felt as if we were slipping half a step back.
A few people were walking with poles, but the majority, us included, were just walking without, and if I’m honest, I’m not sure they would have really helped much.
The coast here is only accessible to vehicles, along sandy tracks, but we reached one beach, where the parking was pretty packed with surfers. We watched them, in the stunningly clean surf, just waiting for their perfect wave. It was easy to see why so many were there.
After heading slightly inland, the path returned to the coast, and we found a little spot, where we sat amongst the Hottentot Figs and Thrift ( which must be a carpet of colour, when they are in flower). We took off our backpacks and enjoyed a few moments, allowing our legs to relax, and our shoulders to ease, whilst we munched on Pastel de Natas…
…the perfect mid-morning snack.
Looking at the route, we had still got another 9km to walk, so couldn’t relax for too long, as we knew that we had more sand to wade through.
Then, we had the nicest of surprises, when we arrived at a beach, where the track turned onto a boardwalk. It was as if someone had given is a caffeine-shot, as with half the effort, we were walking at twice the speed. It was a joyful, but short-lived reprive
Within a short distance, we were back in the sand, heading up hills, slipping almost as far backwards, as we were moving forwards. It didn’t take long for us to use up the energy from the Pastel De Natas, so we sought out a little spot, where we could stop for lunch.
We reached a spot, where the sand turned to rock, above a stunning little cove, so found a little rock, in the shade of some scrub, to sit and eat. It turned out to be the perfect place.
There was a gentle, cooling sea breeze, and beautiful view, so we happily slipped off our bags, and made sandwiches from local cheese, tomatoes and bread that we had carried from Porto Covo. ( there is no other option on this stage of the walk)
As we sat, the clouds gathered inland, and the gentle roar of the waves was overwhelmed by the rumbling thunder, which happily stayed over the hills, heading further inland.
As the sky cleared, we pulled on our bags again, heading on. The light now was stunning, turning the sea improbable shades of turquoise, making it look as if Mother Nature had been playing with Photoshop
The joy was that even though our legs were tired, we had so much to look at, and the tiredness slipped away. These views are there just for the people on the trail. There is no other way to get to this part of the coast, and that makes it very special indeed.
It felt so strange walking in deep sand, on top of rocky cliffs. We could understand it, when we were walking through the dunes, but rock, with deep sand was a bit of a conundrum.
Finally though, we caught sight of houses in the distance, and that put a spring back into our steps, as we followed the last bit of sandy path, with stunning rock formations below
Then it was a short walk into the pretty town of Vila Nova de Milfontes, and our home for the night. I must admit, we were more than a tad tired, when we arrived, but the view from the little roof terrace put a smile on our faces, and we haven’t moved far at all tonight.
We were dirty, grimy and sandy after today, but taking off our shoes, we appreciated just how good the sand gaiters had been. Not a grain of sand had found its way into my shoe, which after today, can only be described as a flipping miracle.
We have dined like kings tonight, with pasta, tomato sauce, tinned mushrooms and frankfurters, drinking wine from mugs, watching the sunset over the sea.
The last time that we can remember being quite this tired, was when we arrived in Beteta, after a huge, steep bike ride from Madrid. But wine, pasta and a gentle evening have been the perfect remedy.
On again tomorrow for another sandy day, but much shorter, as we continue on, to Almograve.
Even 2 days in, we’re more than a little bit in love with this dramatic coast in Portugal
