Vaucluse Dreamer

I would be lying if I said the last few days have easy cycling, but they have been amazing, spectacular and exhausting all at the same time.

This afternoon, we arrived in Zaragoza, after another beautiful ride through ever changing landscapes.

We left Daroca just before 8, walking across the cobbles, as my nether-regions were still a little grumpy and complaining after the last couple of days. We passed through the ancient town gate and immediately stripped off a layer, before turning the first pedal. It was so much warmer than it had been in the mountains and it came as quite a surprise.

After the climbing of the last few days, I may have been hoping for a gentle start to the day, but the route we’d planned had different ideas, and as soon as we turned onto the road, we started to climb, pleased that  we had already packed a layer away.

The start of the ride was along a main road that led us towards the motorway and we anticipated that it was going to be busy, after our experiences riding through France last year. But although there were a few cars on it, it felt safe with drivers giving us so much space as we plugged our way up the long, slow hill.

Once we were up though, we found ourselves on another high plateau, with beautiful views in all directions and some wonderful low, morning light that was perfect for a bit of fun, shadow-cycling.

After the motorway though, we were on our own, taking a quiet road that wound its way through the countryside. We passed isolated little churches, and fields filled with Sweet Rocket, smattered with tiny sunflowers, which had their faces turned to the morning sun..

The peace was disturbed just by skylarks, as we made our way up the hills and past pretty little villages.

I hadn’t thought there was too much climbing today, but I was wrong and the road dipped then climbed steadily and sometimes not so steadily too..

We had noticed that there was a supermarket in the small town of Herrera de Los Navarros, so made for there, stopping to drink fruit juice & munch doughnuts and just top up our water. After the last couple days of not seeing anywhere to buy things from, it felt like a luxury and an opportunity, not to be missed.

The ride into the town was a glorious, a sweeping downhill run, through Pine forests, with the warm scent of the trees filling my nostrils. It was so similar to dropping back into Sault from Mont Ventoux, that I could have imagined myself there.

Naively, I thought (or more hoped) that we had done all the climbing for the day, but I was wrong and even with the sugar boost from coke and the doughnut, my legs were less than impressed that they had to push me up another hill.

But it was worth it, as once we finished the climb, we emerged onto another plateau, covered with wind turbines, gently turning in the breeze. The calm swoosh of the blades blended with the sound of the wind, as we rode between the red and white snow-poles that must be needed to show the edges of the road in winter.

I don’t know how far we could see in every direction, but layers of hills dissolved into the distance, with a bank of mist cloaking the summits beyond Belchite.

Eventually though, we started to descend, heading through increasingly well-kept villages, with rose-filled borders edging the road, on our way towards Villanueva de Huerva. Here, we stopped on the benches by the side of the road and watched the bustle of lunchtime traffic ( 2 lorries and a handful of cars), before we carried on again towards Zaragoza.

Once again, my ideas of no more climbs were dashed, as we headed out of the village, taking a route through vineyards (still heavy with grapes), heading up hills as we made our way onwards Lulled by the sound of cow bells, as we passed a large herd grazing at the side of the road.

But once again it was worth it, with columns of rock towering up at the side of the road in places, Vultures circling around, perhaps hoping that this time I wasn’t going to make it up the hill!

As we came around the final bend, the valley opened up below us, looking as if we were cycling into ‘The Badlands’ of America. The grey, brown and pink of the bare and almost sculptured hills was such a change to what we had already seen. It was as if we had cycled into a different world.

From then on,  my legs were singing, as it was all slightly downhill as we hammered along a main road that ran alongside the motorway. Once again we were amazed at the space and respect given to us by passing drivers.

Eventually, we turned off and took a back road that I’d spotted into Zaragoza. It proved to be the perfect way in, taking us directly onto the protected cycle lanes that led us through the city and to the bottom of the steps, leading up to our apartment.

I’m not a city cyclist, and my anxiety was high as I led us through the city, following paths that ran against the general flow of traffic. But I needn’t have worried, as it all flowed beautifully (just as cycling infrastructure should)

We had booked this apartment for the view and we weren’t disappointed. In the heart of the old city, overlooking the truly stunning spires and domes of the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, we couldn’t have found anywhere better.

After a walk around the old town, enjoying a beer in a quiet square..

we wandered through the beautiful old market, buying a few bits for supper and sat, watching the colours shift on the spires, as we ate a simple, but absolutely perfect supper of salad, cheese and bread (with a glass or 2 of wine too).

In the last 4 days, we have pedalled for 418km and climbed 5020m, which seems almost impossible really. We have a much-needed day off tomorrow to wander the city sights and drink coffee, before we start the next stage of the trip, taking 5 days to ride from here to Girona. Watch A little video from the apartment here

We’re having so much fun, and are constantly amazed by the beauty and dramatic landscapes of this truly incredible country.

As with last year’s ride, we’re having a great time and using it as an opportunity to raise some funds for our local Restos Du Coeur in Apt. So if you’re enjoying following our journey and would like to support this much-needed and well-used organisation then you can  Donate via this link