Beyond the Veloroute cycle #9 – Roussillon, Bonnieux & an Elephant!

What we’ve realised since we bought the house this time last year is that there is no really bad time to cycle in Provence. Yes Summer is hot, but speaking as a ‘mad dog’ I’m very happy to go out in the mid-day sun and to be honest it gives us a great excuse for plenty of stops in village cafes and of course the odd ice cream! Although I will say our French neighbours think we are mad!


On our way up to Simiane La Rotonde for a cooling drink on a hot day last summer

Autumn is delightful – the weather is still gorgeous and the roads are virtually empty – you really feel you have the place to yourself and the colours as the grapes come to harvest and the leaves start to turn are just beautiful.


Autumn colours on the back roads near Lumieres

To be honest even Winter isn’t too bad (especially after cycling in the cold and wet in the UK)- It can be chilly and we didn’t start cycling till later in the morning that we would normally do, but Andy and George had a lovely ride to the summit of Mont Ventoux on Boxing Day & as long as you have the right kit you’re fine. When I say the right kit that doesn’t necessarily include the scarf & woolly hats & socks we have seen as Winter accessories to Lycra!


No scarves, woolly hats or even overshoes needed by the boys – our French neighbour thinks we’re mad even going out of the front door!

However Spring is incredible & already I think it’s my favourite time to ride here – I’m cycling in shorts & short-sleeved jersey, without gloves & the roads are empty……..


Quiet roads, dappled shade on the road near Roussillon today – perfect cycling weather

With the verges filled with wild-flowers………


Wild Grape Hyacinths & a carpet of buttercups in the orchards near Lacoste

And the Cherry trees are in full blossom.


Just beautiful

Today I was eager to get out on Miss Daisy & as usual started off along The Veloroute du Calavon, passing through Apt & heading out to the village of Le Chene, although instead of turning to continue along the cycle route, I headed through Le Chene turning right towards Le Perrotet and meandered through to the hamlet, before taking the road that runs past the entrance to the beautiful La Coquillade Hotel – I do keep promising myself a visit to their Spa, but haven’t quite managed it yet!

After a while this road brings you onto the main road to Roussillon and here you head up the hill through the vineyards & ochre cliffs towards the village. It doesn’t matter how many times I visit the village – I never tire of Roussillon – the colours are so vibrant and there is always plenty going on as well as some wonderful people-watching to be done.


Roussillon is never dull – in bright sunlight today, but even on a dull day it glows

The boulangerie at the entrance to the village is excellent & today I grabbed the chance of a second breakfast (well I was cycling!) and sat soaking up the sun, with a croissant and coffee at a bar overlooking the view towards Saint-Saturnin.


Breakfast with a view & a pretty good one too!

Of course I could easily have sat there all day, but that would never do (I had to work that croissant off somehow) – so I headed out of the village the way I had come in and took the first turning right towards nearby Goult.


How wonderfully French is this?

This quiet little road takes you along a high ridge of land, bordered by pines, which even today smelt wonderful – between the trees you catch glimpses of the other villages in the distance, before you see Goult on its hilltop as the road drops down, leaving you to do the last climb up into the village.


Goult in the distance

From here follow the signs to Lumieres and then cross the main valley road at the roundabout & start heading up the road to Lacoste. It must have been nearly 12 months ago that Andy first cycled this road and came across ‘Mr Snuffleupagus’ and since then the hill has been known to us all as ‘Snuffleupagus Hill’. For anyone wondering what on earth I’m talking about ‘Aloysius Snuffleupagus’ is an Elephant in Sesame Street & this ivy bears an uncanny resemblance to him – or is it only us that thinks that?


Mr Snuffleupagus – I think he’s in need of a bit of a haircut!

Mr Snuffleupagus is near the top of the hill, before you turn right to head into Lacoste itself, which is a stunning village, always worth exploring, topped by the Chateau previously owned by the Marquis de Sade. There are also stunning views across the valley towards Bonnieux, which is the next stop on this ride.


Miss Daisy – overlooking the valley at Lacoste

Dropping out of Lacoste the road winds across the valley between the villages and at the moment it is filled with the low buzz of bees busy in the blossom of the Cherry Trees, which pack the orchards along the route, which then bears left and climbs into Bonnieux.


The view back to Lacoste through the blossom is stunning

I have a real soft spot for Bonnieux, it has a real heart and a lovely Friday morning market and I see there is a pottery market there over the Eater weekend (sadly I’ll be heading back to the UK then so will miss it – such a shame as I do love the local pottery markets)


The weekends are starting to fill up – a sign Spring is really here

The Boulangerie on the roundabout by the lower Church is a favourite stop of ours, but also the Brasserie Les Terrasses, on the road up to the higher part of the village, which has one of the best, if not the best view in the area and even if I don’t necessarily need to cycle past it I tend to head up there just to enjoy the view, like today.


The view from the Brasserie Les Terrasses is exceptional

Today’s cycle then took me back down the hill & along the old road signposted to Apt, which is a wonderful 12 km gentle downhill run & the perfect way to end the ride back to the Veloroute and home.

The whole circuit is just under 60km – so I think I did enough to work that croissant off – perhaps I’ll go for 2 next time!


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16 thoughts on “Beyond the Veloroute cycle #9 – Roussillon, Bonnieux & an Elephant!

  1. What a dream actually to live there much of the year and enjoy such days cycling from village to village and cafe hopping! I hope you still stop and pinch yourself that you are really there.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. HI, love reading posts, I know some of the area you cycle through. I visit Domaine des Anges, which is just up the hill from The village of Mormoiron. Reading your updates I want to get back there fast.

    Thank you


    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks that’s really kind – we’re so lucky being able to spend so much time here now & being out on the bikes is just a delight, especially at the moment as there’s so much colour everywhere! Hope you get out again soon & thanks again


    1. Thanks – Miss Daisy is great but is so called after Driving Miss Daisy as my boys think I’m far too slow!! But the name has stuck & even if I spent a fortune on a new bike (unlikely) she would still be called Miss Daisy! I must admit the views are to die for & I never tire of them, they were even good on grey days in the depths of winter! Thanks again #farawayfiles

      Liked by 1 person

      1. One of the things I love most about riding my bike is the change in scenery all year long even on the same path! Fog, sun, wind different colors of sky. Nothing wrong with “taking your time!”

        Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks – this is a great area to cycle around – there are hills but nothing too hideous unless you opt to try Mont Ventoux! The cycle route ‘Le Veloroute du Calavon’ is along an old railway line & runs all the way along the valley floor so is a great place to start from – giving you off road cycling to get to back roads that lead to the villages. Some of my previous blogs have other routes, but also is a good place to look – hope you get the chance to do a nice ride #farawayfiles

      Liked by 1 person

  3. I feel relaxed just reading this. I can only imagine you get such a boost of energy from enjoying cycling around beautiful Provence no matter the season. Spring does look lovely though! Thanks for joining #FarawayFiles

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks – I certainly get a boost of energy but also the delight of knowing that I can stop for a coffee & pain au chocolate without a second thought! The joys of cycling 😉 #FarawayFiles


  4. Cycling is such a wonderful way to enjoy the countryside. The stunning scenery in this part of Provence really seems made for it. Thanks so much for sharing on #farawayfiles

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Just been reading more of your articles re Provence and the area around Apt. Really enjoyed them. Is there a blog or something I can sign up for to see them regularly? Thank you for bringing a little of Provence to Sheffield.


    1. Hi Pat, that’s so kind of you and hope you’re not being blown away in the gales this morning – I just blog for the fun of it rather than it being a structured site, but the website link is and I always post the link to the latest blog on my Facebook Page or Twitter which are both @vauclusedreamer if that helps. One day I must sort the blog out and get it structured a little bit better! Thanks again – Julie


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