Postcards from Provence and beyond

We woke this morning, with a huge sense of anticipation and excitement, as today we would be reaching the south west tip of Portugal, at the lighthouse of Cabo de São Vicente.

It had been a real landmark for us, on this route, and in so many ways, I had never imagined I would be able to walk this far, carrying the backpack. The fact that we would reach it today was incredibly exciting.

The hotel we were staying in didn’t start breakfast until 8.30, which was far too late for us, so we woke to the luxury of enjoying breakfast in bed, having bought what we needed from the supermarket, yesterday evening.

It proved to be the perfect start to the day

We were out, and walking by 7.30, and got to enjoy another spectacular sunrise.

The sun was coming up, behind Vila Do Bispo

the landscape around us was glowing with shades of gold and orange , and rich ochres..

And the sky was a wonderful sky-blue-pink

Honestly, I can’t explain in words how much we love getting going, at this time of day. It is always a very wonderful way to start every walk, and we couldn’t bear to miss it .

We walked along the empty path, up onto the ridge

Catching a first glimpse of the lighthouse, which seemed so far away.

The morning was filled with birdsong, and we kept spotting all different types of larks, which nest in the low-growing scrub and shrubs. Their songs filled the air

We followed the blue and green markers, with each step taking us closer to the lighthouse

Before we dropped down towards a pretty little cove, where we stopped for a little snack, as our stomachs were already starting to grumble.

We were as mesmerised by the waves, as the gaggle of surfers, gathered above us (I’m not sure if there is a recognised collective noun for a group of surfers, but I’m ready to be educated?)

We eventually dragged ourselves away and continued around the cliffs, climbing back onto the top, where the wind was starting to pick up.

By now, the lighthouse was definitely getting closer, but the gravel path changed, becoming more rocky, slowing us down a little as we picked our way through, trying not to catch our shoes

Then it changed again, to a jagged carpet of rocks that saw us making our way from one to another, trying to avoid the sharpest of stones, and stay upright too. It was ankle-jarring at times, but there was no other way through, so we danced our way across

Before long, we were approaching the lighthouse, this iconic structure, at what had once been considered to be the edge of the known world.

It had been described as being ‘the land of serpents’ by the Greeks, and people had believed that the sun dropped, hissing into the sea, each night.

The bones of Saint Vicente had been buried there, his tomb guarded by Ravens, before he was disinterred and moved to Lisbon, this removal apparently now forming part of the Lisbon Coat of Arms.

And so many battles had been fought off the Cape from as early as the 1300s. We were really looking forward to perhaps learning a little more.

I can’t start to describe how disappointed we were, when we walked the final few hundred metres to the lighthouse to find it was simply at the end of a car park, which was filled with food vans, and what felt like little market stalls. It had all the ambience of a car-boot sale in a car park.

The gates to the lighthouse are firmly shut, and there was nothing to explain the amazing history of the site, or the legends associated with it.

It is the starting point for the EuroVelo 1, cycle route

and the end of a hiking trail that starts in Estonia too. So I suppose I had thought there may be a café, and perhaps a little visitor centre, or at least some signs with a bit about its past and the current lighthouse. But there was nothing, apart from this sign, to which someone had added a bit of graffiti.

It left us feeling rather empty, and the joy we felt was the joy of the walk to get there, rather than the joy of arriving at this iconic and historic point.

We stayed long enough to take a photo of the lighthouse through the bars of the gate, and headed on. The spring having gone a little, from our step.

Once we were back on the coast path, the views were better, and we captured a photo of ourselves, with the lighthouse in the background, although our grins were perhaps, a little forced.

We followed the path away from the Cape, and found a sandy bank to sit on, whilst we had lunch. Another perfect picnic spot, overlooking the bay towards Sagres, and our destination for tonight.

The wind had picked up, whipping little white horses on top of the waves, and we watched carefully for signs of dolphins that are regularly seen in these waters, also watching the rocks for a sight of a Chough., which nest here.

We saw neither, but enjoyed the peace, and natural beauty

Eventually, we pulled ourselves back to our feet, pulled on our back packs, and continued around the coast.

It was a stunning walk, with the path sticking close to the cliff edge, giving is wonderful views of the incredible rock formations, along this part of the coast.

We ambled along gently, eventually joining the road that took us into Sagres, where we are staying tonight.

We had already found a little laundrette on the edge of the town, where we would stop, to do the washing that will get us to Lisbon. We have had washing machines every 2 days until now, so have always had clean clothes each day, but needed to do a wash today to ensure we don’t smell like badgers, by the time we catch the train to Lisbon, on Saturday afternoon

We have visited a fair few laundrettes, during our adventures, but none quite like this. The machines were in a section of a lovely bar, cafe, and community workspace. We put the clothes in the washer, ordered a beer and sat on a sofa, as we waited for the wash-cycle to complete.

After walking 23km today, our longest so far, we enjoyed the sit down, and the beer, leaving 40 mins later, with a bag full of clean clothes!

Tonight, we have had a simple supper, sitting on the terrace of our room, watching the view back to the lighthouse

As I finish typing this, the sky is shot with vibrant flashes of red and orange from a truly stunning sunset

And the light from the lighthouse, on the edge of Europe is doing its job, flashing its warning light for over 40km out to sea.

A stunning end to a day that left us feeling a little numb. But we are looking forward to continuing tomorrow, heading across what is meant to be the hardest section of the trail, on our way to Salema.

I think we’ll sleep well tonight!