Postcards from Provence and beyond

That’s it, we officially give up with the weather forecasts!

Yesterday, one weather app was saying that today would be overcast with an occasional shower, and the other suggested short periods of light rain. We imagined a gentle day of ambling around Cognac, exploring the back-streets of the pretty, old town, having coffee in a café just to avoid a shower.

But those ideas quickly went out of the window, as since mid-morning, there has been a stream of water running down the window of the apartment, and the view of the church tower, from the terrace is blurred by the heavy rain, and persistent drizzle.

After getting so wet, over the last few days on the bikes, we just couldn’t face walking around, getting soaked, so Mother Nature has dictated that we should have a quiet day, sorting out some admin, and watching La Vuelta, on our phone. At least we have a view out of the window, and a solid roof over our heads, so we really can’t complain.

If we’re honest, it’s probably just what we need, before heading on again tomorrow.

We slept like the dead last night, absolutely shattered after a day’s ride into a brutal headwind (you can Read about the ride and see a little video from the day here )

When we woke, it was relatively bright, so we popped out for baguettes, dried the table on the terrace, and looked forward to a slow morning, before taking a walk.

We wanted to do a bit more laundry, and a bit of shopping too, at the Sunday market, which had been set up around the site of the old market hall, which has been demolished and is evidently going to be rebuilt.

The market stalls have been moved into a large marquee, and some other unoccupied shops, in and around the old market square, which means that that the local producers and traders can continue to work, whilst the market hall is being replaced.

We dropped the washing in a machine at the laundrette, and took a walk around the town to get some bits that we needed and to snuffle something nice out, for supper.

We bought half a rotisserie chicken, thanks to the smell drifting across the square, making our mouths water, then found some truffled gratin dauphinois to go with it, and a few coeur de boeuf tomatoes too.

As we wandered through the streets, we got an idea of the beauty, richness and grandeur of the buildings here. There are lots of old ‘ghost signs’ visible on the pale stone of the shop-fronts

Amazing stonework, wherever we looked, especially on this boarded-up shop. The sculptures were amazing, and I hope the shop is restored and the facade regains its former glory..

The Art Nouveau design of this building was so incredibly elegant, from the beautiful carvings around the windows, to the wonderful face, looking down on the square… and those glazing bars, they were just amazing.

There are also some superb shop signs, this one standing out above the rest, There’s no missing the glitzy ‘Brasserie du Coq D’Or’, with its cockerel strutting above the balcony..

As we walked back along the street, the church bells were tolling and the longer I listened, the more it seemed to be pealing to the tune of ‘Remember You’re a Womble’, which has given me an earworm, ever since – sadly, it also shows my age, and how bizarrely my brain works too.

As we walked back to the house, the first drops of rain started to fall, and they haven’t stopped since. As we passed, this little cat that we had said hello to (when we popped out), was sitting outside the front door, yowling to be let back in, whilst the owner was calling to him from the upstairs window, telling him that his door was at the back. When the cat just sat there, he gave a gallic shrug and disappeared back inside.

It’s now mid-afternoon and the rain is still falling, so we haven’t really done much exploring at all.

I know we should have just pulled on our waterproof jackets, and gone for a walk, but after the last few days of being wet (at times beyond belief), and having the tent hung up here drying out, we have finally said no.

The last time we stopped in Cognac, we found ourselves under a cloudburst, so it is starting to feel as if it is a bit of a pattern, and we’re not meant to get under its skin. Hopefully it will improve later, and we can venture out, we’ll keep our fingers crossed.

It’s strange, as if we had a ride to do today, we would have just got on with it. There is something about our mindset when we’re on our cycling adventures that is so different to when we are simply riding around the roads, at home in Provence, where we really are fair-weather cyclists.

There, we would take one look at the rain, and decide to leave the bikes where they are and go for a wet walk instead. We don’t do wet-weather riding! Yet on an adventure, we don’t have that option, and cycle in all weathers, with a smile.

We always say that it’s good for the soul, and looking back on the last few days, I really feel that is the case. The thing is that however much we don’t like to think we’re getting older; we’re not spring chickens any more, and have aches, niggles, and the first tender joints with arthritis. But, we’re still able to do this, and can do it in style.

Neither of us are ready to let the old man, or woman in yet … and these little adventures help us keep them at bay!

We’re sitting now, switching between the Mountain Biking and the Vuelta, watching the rain through the window, and listening to the rain gurgling in the gutters.

It’s been a gentle, and quiet day off today, and we head on tomorrow, pottering down to La Roche Chalais, on the Dronne River.

At the moment the weather apps are both saying it’s going to be sunny, with a few clouds and no rain at all…

We’ll just have to wait and see.