Postcards from Provence and beyond

After a soggy day yesterday, we managed to get the tent set up, before storms hit again, so we spent the evening sheltered in the small front section of the tent, with all the bags and our chairs, listening to the rain drumming on the tent roof, and the thunder crashing around us.

At least we felt we had the perfect excuse for an early night, so we zipped ourselves into the sleeping compartment and watched Provence Rugby’s first home match, on the phone. It’s amazing to think that we’ll be watching them play at Colomiers, just outside Toulouse, in a week’s time – we have some pedalling to do before that!

The storms continued during the night, waking us a few times, with us both wondering how we would pack everything away this morning, if it was all dripping wet.

We had planned a 70km ride today, but when we woke, the storms were still rumbling and the rain was still falling persistently from a slab-grey sky. The weather apps suggested that the worst would have passed by 10, so we spent the time re-planning the route, reducing the distance to 50km, so we could set off slightly later.

The weather apps seemed to be right, and by 9.45, the rain was stopping, so we took the opportunity to pack everything away, trying not to get everything too muddy, before putting it into the panniers. We couldn’t really believe that we were having to consider mud, after such a dry summer, but it was everywhere; thick, sticky and determined to attach itself to anything that came close.

Eventually, everything was packed and stowed away, and after we had managed to clean the slabs of mud from our shoes, we pedalled out. The sun even shone through the clouds, while we pedalled through Coulon, before the heavens opened again and sent us running for our waterproofs.

The Marais Poitevin is a lovely area to cycle through (even on a grey day), and we wingled our way through pretty villages, criss-crossing over the extensive network of canals and water-channels.

We were starting to settle into the ride, and the sun even came out, making it too warm for the coats, which were quickly popped away. It was a decision that we quickly came to regret.

We could see the rainstorms around us, but were pedalling under a blue sky, yet all of a sudden a few drops started to fall. We just expected it to be a passing shower, but within seconds we were hit by a wall of water. The rain turned from a few drops to a full waterfall, in an instant, spurred on by a vicious wind that came from nowhere, whipping the trees and hedges into a frenzy, and hurling the heavy raindrops at us, with force.

It only took us a few seconds to grab our coats, but that was enough for us both to be soaked to the skin, and scurrying for cover behind the hedgerow, trying to protect ourselves from the deluge. It didn’t really work!

You can Watch a video from the deluge here

What can you do, but laugh. There’s nothing we can do about it, we won’t melt – it’s just part of the adventure (but it’s a part we are happy not to have again for a while)

The squall passed after a few minutes, leaving the road surface looking like a river, and us looking like drowned rats. We hopped back on the bikes and pedalled on.

The one benefit of the rain, was that it brightened the colours around us, and as the sun emerged from a break in the cloud, everything looked golden, in the light. It was as if everything had been scrubbed clean, and we rode on with a smile on our faces.

As we reached a junction, on the approach to a village called  Saint-Symphorien, we spotted signs that the road would be closed for the Tour du Poitou Charentes, on 28th August. It took a moment to register that was today, and that perhaps we would be in time to see the race pass by.

We chatted to the stewards at the barrier, blocking access to the main road, and they told us that the start would be just 500m up the road, and that we would be in time to watch the team presentation, taking place before the start.

What a delight. We had no idea the Tour was taking place this week, as we had been rather taken up by our own Tour, so we pedalled up to watch, enjoying riding under the big ‘Depart’ sign..

Before parking the bikes and watching the presentations (which were interrupted by another fierce rainstorm that sent the spectators scurryng into the Salle des Fetes, for cover.

We got a great place by the barriers, where we were able to watch the riders line up, before the flag was waved and the vibrant jerseys of the peloton filed past us, adding a splash of colour to the grey of the day.

Once the team cars and buses had left, we pedalled on again, stopping in a handy bus-shelter to hide from another storm, and taking a chance to make a coffee and have some lunch too.

With only 50km to ride today, the pressure was off, and after getting so wet, it wasn’t as if we felt we could avoid the storms if we arrived at a certain time.

The afternoon was a mix of sunshine and squally showers, and we pedalled along peaceful, roads through rolling, rural countryside, stopping to watch the cows on the way through.

With the showers, the wind picked up, and we cycled across an area of huge open fields, struggling (at times) to keep the bikes steady, as the nasty side wind, whipped at our wheels, making me bend double over the handlebars, as we rode the last 7km into a head-wind that made it feel as if we were constantly pedalling uphill.

We planned to stay at a small camp site, in the pretty little village of Dampierre sur Boutonne tonight, and had checked that the little epicerie , by the site would be open, so we could buy something for supper. We had been caught out on the ride up through France and had enjoyed one evening meal of a baguette doused in balsamic vinegar, as the shops were closed. Happily, it was open until 4.30, so we would be fine.

We arrived at 3, and it was shut. Perhaps it would re-open, but no – a sign in the front door said it was a ‘fermeture aujourd’hui at 12’ – we couldn’t believe it. The village restaurant is closed on a Friday evening, and the nearest supermarket would be another 8km ride, each way.

Then, we bumped into the manager of the site, who spotted us arriving and came to tell us just to settle in and she would see us later to do the paperwork. I asked if there was an epicerie nearby, as we needed to buy some food and she said this one was open till 4, before realising it wasn’t and gave us details of the one 8km away, adding that there would be a pop-up creperie coming to the site at about 6, this evening, if we fancied a crepe.

At least that was something, so we wandered around the village, then nibbled the biscuits we still had in our carriers, and started to look forward to a crepe (hoping that he would arrive, as we couldn’t be certain, based on our experiences so far)

As we were sitting, the site manager came over with a tin of ravioli, as she was worried it would be a while until the creperie arrived, and she didn’t want us to get too hungry, after our ride.

It was so kind of her, and it definitely filled a rather large hole, until the man arrived with his gas canisters and crepe griddles, and we enjoyed a couple of fresh crepes, which finished the day perfectly. He even had beer!

The showers are still around this evening, but apart from a few drops from time to time, we have kept dry, and have been able to sit outside, watching the house-martins and swallows above us, listening to the wind in the trees.

On again tomorrow, heading towards Cognac, where we’ll spend 2 nights and explore the town. The last time we were there, we ended up in a cloud-burst, let’s hope history doesn’t repeat itself…