It’s really hard to believe that we have been pedalling for 6 days, since leaving home and that tonight, we are sitting on the balcony of a little apartment in Saumur, watching the River Loire flow by, and enjoying the entertainment of watching the age-old game of people trying to find parking spaces in the road below us. It’s like watching a chaotic game of musical chairs, but involving car horns rather than music.
Today has been another delightful day on the bikes, and reinforced that we really enjoy the slower days, when we can stop and simply enjoy what we find. Although with the heat, we had to leave the camp-site at 6 again, so it’s not been a day that started slowly.
We woke to the sound of an Oriole calling from the tree above us, which is much more effective than any alarm-clock, and quickly got on with packing everything away to hop on the bikes for today’s stage.
A couple of days ago, we decided to book an apartment in Saumur for a couple of nights, to give us a day off the bikes and also give us a bit of respite from the heat. The forecasts have been getting worse and over the next couple of days the temperature is due to rise into the early 40s, which is far too hot for cycling any distance. So we felt a bit of a rest, in a place other than a tent (which can be stifling at night), is a good idea.
So today’s ride was just short of 60km, and would take us along the Vienne River, through Chinon and into Saumur. It felt like a day off.
Setting off at just after 6am, it was a stunning, golden start to the day, and without the hills of the first 5 days, the kilometres slipped easily below our wheels.
Cycling close to the rivers meant it was slightly cooler too, which was even better.
Cycling in the early morning was really lovely, with the low light creating beautiful shadows, and the birds shepherding us on our way. I was even chased by a hoopoe, at one point, I did wonder if it was the one that I had watched yesterday evening, just popping by to wave us off.
As we pedalled along, we noticed the changing architecture again, with elegant houses and chateaux along the way,
Although this one did make us wonder what a roof replacement on a place like this would cost. We do have some strange conversations as we ride.
We passed a sunflower field that was just coming into flower…
and the bees were already hard at work in the golden blooms
Before catching our first sight of Chinon, as we rounded a bend on the river. It was a dramatic sight, with the Chateau standing proud on the skyline.
As we pedalled in, we were passed by a stream of beautiful classic cars, and wondered if it was just a good time and road for a drive, but as we arrived in Chinon, we discovered the town was filled with stunning vintage vehicles, all ready for this year’s Chinon Classic Rally.
We stopped to walk around the pristine cars that were getting ready to leave for the day’s drive. There really were some special vehicles that were their owner’s pride and joy.
There was even a green 2CV, ready to set off among MGs, Daimlers and even Austin 7 hill trial cars. It was a glorious sight (and sound)
We stopped in a square for coffee and watched the cars set off, some sounding their quirky, musical horns as they left, before we dragged ourselves away and continued on.
The road took us alongside the river
Before taking us through a succession of pretty villages, filled with local wine-makers. They hadn’t opened for the day, so no temptation to stop for a tasting (or two)
Before long, we crossed the Vienne and started to follow the Loire River, starting with 2 of the ‘Plus Beaux Villages de France’
The first, Candes Saint Martin, with its pretty flower-lined streets and quaint houses and church
Before Montsoreau, an elegant village that sits on the banks of the Loire, with a chateau, at one end.
Just between the villages, we heard the unmistakeable sound of old car engines approaching, and watched in delight as a Renault 16 came into sight – this was the car my parents had for all the family holidays we had with the caravan in France, when I was a child – although the one we spotted was white, rather than the distinctive orange 16TX, with smoked glass windows that my dad had loved so much.
Then a stream of glorious memories drove past, including a beautifully restored Renault R8
A characterful Mini, and a white 2CV – Fifi would have loved this…
After stopping for coffee, we turned off onto the gravel path that takes bikes along the Loire a Velo, alongside the river. A pretty ride under trees, with the riverbank glowing with masses of bright yellow King-Cups.
Then it was a short ride into Saumur,
where we found a shaded place to sit, surrounded by the bustle of the saturday morning market.
It was even better when I realised the fountain, in the square had been changed to provide a mist of fresh, cold water , at regular intervals.
It was the perfect way to cool off, in the heat of the day.
The lady who owns the apartment we had rented had kindly offered us the chance to get in early, as she appreciated we were cycling and wouldn’t want to be in the heat for any longer than necessary.
So by 1230, we were settling into the apartment, with a delightful view over the river. In plenty of time to cool off and watch Exeter Chiefs take on Northampton in the Premiership Rugby Final. There is a great French YouTuber who has the rights to stream it in France, and his commentary is a joy.
So an afternoon of rugby, in the breeze from a fan, and although we didn’t win, it was a lovely way to spend the afternoon.
Tomorrow, we will potter out to one of the nearby villages, then it is the fete de la Musique, in the evening. But mainly, we will plan the rest of the trip and finalise the changes we have been talking about.
I’ll tell you more tomorrow, but for now it’s time for a glass of wine and to watch more ‘musical car parking’ being played below.
Postcards from Provence and beyond 