Postcards from Provence and beyond

We have always loved gardens, and over the last 5 years, have transformed the bare concrete terraces, at the side of the house, into a green and scented haven of peace.

The fences and pergola are a riot of colour, thanks to the roses that came from the stunning gardens at Valsaintes Abbey.

When we first moved here, I imagined any garden we created would be filled with drought-resistant Lavender, Cistus, Salvias and simple succulents too. I don’t think I ever imagined that we would be able to enjoy rambling roses and flower-filled borders. That remained the case, until I was introduced to the beautiful gardens at the Abbaye de Valsaintes and discovered what a hidden gem it is.

The Abbey and its beautiful gardens are set at the head of a small valley, in the rocky landscape between Simiane La Rotonde and Oppedette, just across the border into the Alpes de Haute Provence. And in late May & early June, they explode with colour and life, when the huge collection of roses are in full bloom.

I visited this weekend with a good friend, Marina who has an excellent French Language School at Viens She had originally introduced me to the Gardens in 2018, and on Sunday, we enjoyed a couple of hours, wandering, sitting, and admiring the flowers.

This small, and simple old-stone Abbey dates back to 1180, when the land in the Valley of Boulinette was given to the Abbey of Silvacane and 12 Cistercian Monks came to live here. A ‘new’ Abbey was built and then blessed in 1672, with Monks living and working there until the French Revolution, when it was abandoned & taken over for use as a farm, stable and sheepfold, until it deteriorated even further.

However the site, sitting on the ‘Boulinette’ promontory, had long been considered a spiritual place for many centuries, before the arrival of the Monks, as Paleolithic, Gallo-Roman & Celtic artefacts had been found there too. Also, its name is derived from the ancient Celtic sanctuary which was sited there, dedicated to the Sun God Belenos. This, especially through the Winter Solstice, is still an important factor in the spirituality of this beautiful place.

Understandably there are numerous legends associated with the site and the unusual rock formations that sit within its land. Even now, there is a strong sense of connection with both the natural world, and the past that gives the gardens their wonderful sense of peace and calm.

Aside from the Abbey, the gardens are also home to very defined round & oval rocks that look like large eggs, also known as ‘Boulinettes’. These, with other rock formations gave rise to the site being used for fertility rituals, which are still in place to this day.

There is a large rock shaped like a dragon, which was believed to represent ‘Deesse Mere’ Mother Goddess, (also known as Dame a l’Absinthe -Fee Verte, which gave rise to the ancient name for the valley as the Val D’Absinthe). The dragon lies with her eggs laid around her, still clearly seen and recognisable to anyone with a keen imagination.

Just below the sleeping dragon is a large round stone formation that looks like a pregnant woman’s stomach, a well-recognised fertility symbol.  This has long been devoted to the ‘Mother Goddess’ – Mother Earth, and is still visited by women wishing for children, or by pregnant women today.

The area by this site is beautifully shaded by an ancient Oak growing directly from the stones, shaped like a stag’s head and antlers. This little spot has a serene, calm, very spiritual sense and it is easy to understand how it has captured people’s imagination since almost the dawn of time.

This is not the only unusual, ancient element to the site, which also has strong connections to the solar cycle and there is a standing stone at the edge of the promontory, around which notches have been cut into the rocks at very specific points.

These notches allow for the sun to hit the centre of the standing stone on specific dates throughout the year, the Summer & Winter Solstice, the Spring & Autumn Equinox, Beltane & Lamas (1st May & 1st August) and Imbolc & Samhain (1st Feb & 1st November). This ancient clock that followed the seasons and worked in a similar way to the site at Stonehenge was clearly of critical importance for those who inhabited the valley many centuries ago.

The link to the solar cycle doesn’t end there though, as the Abbey is also constructed to allow it to benefit from the low sun at the Winter Solstice. Built on the same alignment as a primitive grotto found at the site, the Abbey has a simple circular window on its South wall above the main door. At 2.32pm on the day of the Winter Solstice (21st December) the sun shines directly through this opening, lighting the heart of the simple altar inside, a dramatic and beautiful sight, which pays testament to the building skills of the artisans working on the Abbey almost 500 years ago, capturing a phenomenon that had brought people to the site many centuries before.

Although they had fallen into disrepair, the Abbey and gardens are beautifully restored, having been bought by a local Association in 1996, who have taken responsibility for it since.

The Abbey itself, is a simple, calm space, lit by beautifully designed modern stained glass windows. These represent Earth, Air, Fire and Water, which seems so apt when you consider the strong spiritual link to Mother Nature at the site.

But, aside from the Abbey, it is the gardens that people really come to visit.

It is an incredible rose garden that would be just as at home in the UK, as it is in the South of France. The paths wind along various terraces that are edged with deep borders, filled with roses and perennial plants.

Over 600 different types of rose are grown in the garden, from traditional wild roses, to hybrids and large overblown blooms, the colours and scents are simply stunning.

At the height of the season, it is an absolute riot of colour, with roses, sitting amongst wild flowers

Or vying for attention between clematis and other plants.

It’s a natural garden, where the wild flowers are welcomed as part of the eco-system, and as such it is filled with the sound of insects, dapping between the blooms

And butterflies, making the most of them too.

The garden is designed to sit comfortably in its unique setting cosy little nooks…

and offers scented and shady corners, where you can simply sit and relax on a sunny day.

Although the roses are the stars of this garden…

It also showcases a thriving vegetable garden, built on restored stone terraces. Here, a system of crop rotation, with a strong emphasis on natural growing methods, minimises the potential for damage to the soil and of course encourages wildlife.

The added benefit being that the produce is used in the restaurant, which is a beautiful place to sit for lunch.

There is also a new area, planted on an arid slope, full of drought-resistant plants, showing what can be achieved with little, and at times, no water. Filled with Sages, Cistus, Euphorbias, succulents, and low-growing flowers, it is a bright and pretty garden, and has inspired me to add some more little pieces to our garden, this autumn.

The Jardins de L’Abbaye de Valsaintes really are a beautiful place to visit. There is so much to consider and take in – it is certainly so much more than just a walk around a nice garden – you can even get married here – now that would be really special!

The nice thing is that the garden continues to grow and evolve under the watchful management of the Head Gardener and the team who have created this wonderful space in a very short period of time. The difference, since I first visited in 2018 is quite dramatic and it is so lovely to have it on our doorstep.

In fact the words on the back of the Abbey’s booklet sum it up beautifully:

You have just walked in the footsteps of the men and women who have walked on this land for thousands of years. A part of you is now part of the garden and we sincerely hope that you have taken a part of the garden with you.

Every time I visit, I take away, a little bit more. Our terraced garden wouldn’t be what it is today, without the inspiration, we found there …….

For more information on the Abbey, Garden & opening times and events visit the website www.valsaintes.org or visit their shop www.jardin-abbaye.com