Postcards from Provence and beyond

After what has felt like a couple of weeks of ‘hurry up and wait’, we finally set off on our first cycling adventure of the year, this morning.

Today we had planned a ride that would take us along La Mediterranée cycle route, to make our way towards Beaucaire for our first night’s stop, on our way to Pezenas.

In previous years, our rides have ended with this stage, and we have always felt a little subdued, as we have pedalled our way through Cavaillon, on our way home, with the adventure already in the rear-view mirror. Today gave us a chance to enjoy it, as the first day of a tour, when we have the whole ride ahead of us, and everything is exciting and new.

After re-packing a couple of times, marvelling at how light the panniers are, without all the camping equipment that we will carry on the summer rides, we tightened our shoes, clipped the bags onto the bikes, and we pedalled out of the drive, on the first leg of a 10 day tour.

After 10 days of glorious weather, today was grey and a tad chilly, as we whizzed down the hill to join the Veloroute du Calavon; the wonderful off-road cycle path that runs through the Luberon Valley and that happens to be at the bottom of the hill to our hamlet. We had no idea just how much we would use it, when we bought our little home there.

Once on it, we pedalled along happily, just getting used to having the panniers on the bikes again, inadvertantly clipping a few of the gates to begin with, forgetting how much wider the bike is.

Even though we use this path almost every day, cycling out on it to start an adventure gives it another layer. It seems ridiculous, but everything appeared as if it was in HD, and I seemed to see houses and other details for the first time. It was as if pedalling with a different purpose than just a normal ride around the area, made us more aware of where we were. We didn’t take any of it for granted, noticing patches of poppies, groups of orchids and being stopped in our tracks more than once by the delightful song of the Nightingales.

Then after 25km, just before Coustellet, everything came to an abrupt standstill, when there was a loud hiss from Andy’s rear tyre, followed by a fine spray of white, sticky liquid that covered him, the bike and the panniers. A dramatic reopening of a puncture that he’d dealt with, when we arrived in Angouleme, on our ride down, last summer.

We have tubeless tyres fitted to the bikes, and they have been fantastic. The puncture that was sealed in Angouleme hadn’t caused us another moment’s problem. It brought us all the way back to Provence, has managed many rides since, and yet today decided enough was enough.

It refused point-blank to reseal itself, so we stopped, and Andy used some magical putty that is prodded into the hole, and a few minutes later, with the tyre pumped back up, we were on our way again.

We arrived in Cavaillon, as the Monday morning market was starting to quieten down, heading straight to our favourite coffee shop, to collect some supplies for the trip (we have brought our jetboil with us, so we can enjoy a nice mid-morning coffee, on the road)

We enjoyed a coffee and much-needed cinnamon roll, whilst we waited for the coffee to be ground, and then set off again, following the cycle path across the Durance, and on towards our planned lunch stop at Saint Remy de Provence.

It was quite strange cycling away from Cavaillon, as suddenly we felt that the adventure had really started. I suppose that a coffee-ride to Cavaillon is one of our regular jaunts, but the only times that we have cycled on the other side of the Durance, are when we have been on our tours. Even though the ride to Cavaillon had felt different, it was only at this point that we really felt, we were on our way.

The ride through to Saint Remy was delightful. we followed the cycle path and quiet back-roads that took us through orchards, with wonderful views across to the dramatic rocky profile of the ‘Alpilles’.

By now, the clouds had melted away, and we were pedalling in warm sunshine, with a light, refreshing breeze. It was peaceful, beautiful and filled with the sound of birdsong and insect chatter. Everything that we love about being out and about on the bikes.

In Saint Remy, we found a boulangerie, bought a couple of Fougasses, and pushed the bikes through the pretty streets, to sit in the shade of Horse Chestnut trees, in a square just off one of the main cobbled streets.

We leaned the bikes against a tree and sat for an hour, eating, chatting and indulging in the fascinating pass-time of people-watching. We had completed about 60km of today’s ride, and it was rather lovely, just to sit in a very pretty place and let time slip gently past.

The ride had started and we were already relaxing quite happily into it, slowing down and simply living in the moment, rather than worrying about what else we have to do.

Eventually, we dragged ourselves away to pedal the last 20km to tonight’s stop in Beaucaire, following another well-made off-road cycle path that took us through countryside and small villages on our way to tonight’s stop.

It was all going so well, until the puncture re-opened again, covering Andy in yet more sticky fluid. This was a real concern. If it couldn’t be fixed, it would be ‘ride-over’, before we had even really started. 

More of the magic fixing putty was squidged into the hole, and after a few moments, the flow of liquid slowed and then stopped. The tyre was re-filled again and we tentatively continued on, waiting to hear the hissing that would accompany the failing repair.

Happily, it stayed closed, and the final kilometres into Beaucaire slipped past easily.

We have previously stayed in Tarascon, but this is the first time we have crossed the bridge to Beaucaire, with its dramatic chateau remains, and pretty old town..

Tonight, we are staying on a boat, that is moored on the Rhone-Sete Canal, in the heart of the town. It sounds a lot grander than it is. This isn’t Monaco Marina!

Just getting onboard made my knees wobble, and I watched in awe as Andy carried the bikes across the bendy, and incrediibly unstable gang-plank. But now we’re on, it’s a rather lovely place to sit and watch the sun dance across the water.

There is a pair of Kites circling above us, the swifts are screaming as they hammer past us, the fish are jumping and the reflections on the water are mesmerising.

We will enjoy a beer, whilst watching the sun go down. Happy to have started this latest adventure, with the first 80km completed.

You can watch a short video of today’s ride here

We head on again tomorrow, making our way, aross country, to Sommieres. So hope you enjoy travelling with us again.