Vaucluse Dreamer

After yesterday’s truly hideous day, we’ve slipped back into wonderfully gentle normality today, and already we have started to forget how we felt, this time yesterday.

We were exhausted last night, and once again were in a dead sleep before 9pm, which was just what we needed, waking this morning just before 6, to find the local athletics team already mid-training session.

After chatting last night, we had a new plan for today and it involved an early start to head to Tokushima, where we would find an Onsen, before seeing if we could catch the ferry from there to Wakayama, where we would spend some time exploring the area, back on Honshu.

We had also looked at the map and decided that we would simply hop on the Expressway to get to Tokushima. We’d really had our fill of the roads on Shikoku, after the last few days.

We watched the team finish their training and bow to their coach, before we pottered on, just after 7, making our way to the Onsen we’d found that opened at 8.

Freshened up, we drove to the ferry terminal, wondering if we would be able to get a crossing today, and having watched their helpful Youtube Video last night, we found our way to their drive-in ticket office.

We established that there was space on the next crossing, in just under an hour, which was perfect. We had to show them the vehicle’s certificate, and paid 15,900 yen (£79.50) for the crossing, being directed into a lane, to wait to be boarded.

It was an incredibly easy process, and we even had time for a cup of coffee in the van, whilst we waited. Another of the aspects of having a campervan that we are finding rather lovely.

When the ferry arrived, we boarded quickly, and went up onto the deck, for the 2 hr 20 crossing across Wakayama Bay. It was an old boat, and certainly was very different to the slick ferries that cross between the UK and france, but it left on time and we had a very smooth crossing between the 2 ports.

You can see A little video from the crossing here

Inside there were seating areas, and open areas with tatami mats, where people were sitting too. There were vending machines offering hot and cold drinks and snacks, and even pot noodles & ice cream too, although most of the people on board seemed to have come with their own ‘Bentos Box’ with their preferred lunch option.

We stayed out on deck, enjoying the view of the islands as we passed, amazed at the number of huge ships making their way through the bay too. It was just what we needed. A chance to both sit, relax, catch up on our books and simply enjoy the trip.

It goes without saying (as this is Japanese public transport) that we arrived on time, and were quickly and efficiently disembarked, finding ourselves back on Honshu, and on our way again.

We had decided to head for Koyasan, the town that has built up around the beautiful temple and buildings of the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism in Japan. It is a spectacular site, and is traditionally the end of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, which is one of only two pilgrimage World heritage Sites.

We had found a parking area, in a forest park, just outside the town, which looked to be away from the crowds, but was also on a footpath, we could follow to visit the town tomorrow.

After yesterday’s experience, I checked almost every centimetre of the route we would take, but this time, it looked easy driving, with wide roads and plenty of space too. So it looked perfect.

Almost as soon as we left Wakayama, we both said it felt different to Shikoku, as we could see the sky above the wooded hills and mountains, which were more gentle in shape and size. It felt more open, and we started to relax.

It was a delightful drive through, following the road up a gentle valley, with rice fields and pretty villages dotting the landscape, either side of a little mountain river.

We did get very excited, when we saw a sign to say that we were on a musical road, where grooves have been cut into the surface, which make notes, when driven over at 40kph. The notes play a Japanese ballad, Miagete goran yoru no hoshi wo, so we were rather keen to experience it.

What the sign didn’t say was that it is only in one direction …. the opposite direction to the one we were travelling in! Hey ho, we did consider finding somewhere to turn round, but decided perhaps another day.

Eventually. we turned out of the valley and started to climb to Mount Koya, stopping at a beautiful Buddhist Temple site on the way.

We did turn round to head back to visit this, as we had noticed it on a bend, as we passed, and we’re pleased we did.

The temple building was pretty, with beautiful details..

With a large statue of what we found out was Fudo Myo, one of the good deities who drives away evil spirits. He carries a sword to cut down delusions, catches evil thoughts with a net and the fire behind him burns away bad karma. It was really a stunning representation.

But then we found the moss-covered steps behind him, which took us up the hill, to a glorious golden statue of Dainchi Nyorai.

It was an incredible sight and came as such a surprise as more of it was revealed, the higher we climbed the steps..

We’re so pleased we stopped.

Then on our way again to Koyasan, and we got a quick sight of the exquisite buildings, as we drove through to our park-up tonight.

It’s a perfectly peaceful spot, surrounded by woodland, just outside the town. We had time to relax, sitting with a drink, listening to the birds, and reflecting on a much more gentle and happily stress-free day, as the 5pm town chimes sang out of the loud-speaker.

There’s a little Video of tonight’s park up & 5pm music here

Hopefully, we’ll have a good night’s sleep and be able to explore, tomorrow.