Vaucluse Dreamer

Today was another early start, as I think everyone up on the camp ground at the Shikoku Karst was up early, hoping to see the sunrise.

Unfortunately, there wasn’t a ray of sunshine in sight, but we found ourselves on an island above a sea of cloud that filled the valleys to the north. It was a beatiful sight

And to the south, layer upon muted layer of mountains, stretching as far as the eye could see. I can only imagine how spectacular this would be on a perfectly clear day.

We enjoyed the views with our first coffee of the day, before heading off, at just after 6.30am to make our way down the narrow, winding road, before anyone started to make their way up.

Happily, we made it all the way down, without seeing anything, but it just reinforced that we need to be very careful, where we go on Shikoku, as so many of the roads are like this, in the steep-sided alpine valleys.

We had decided to head to the nearby Nakatsu Gorge for breakfast, where we could take a walk and also visit an Onsen too.

When we arrived, shortly after 7.30, we parked at the bottom of the road and walked a short way up, just to be certain that we could drive to the parking spot in the van. Happily, we felt we could and pottered up, taking the last of 3 parking spaces, where there was no height restriction.

It was a beautifully peaceful little spot, and we sat by the start of the path up the Gorge, with our second coffee, and a bowl of porridge, just enjoying the sound of the water running past.

Breakfast over, we set off to walk up the path that wends its way up the Gorge towards the Uryu Waterfall, at the top.

It was a delightful little walk, along a well-made route, that took us along the incredibly clear water of the river, which looked almost turquoise in places..

Through narrow ginnels, created by the water over hundreds of thousands of years

We climbed steps..

Walked over bridges and platforms that criss-crossed the water

And took a route that seemed (on the face of it), would allow us to do a circular walk, visiting the Stone Pillars, heading on a footpath across the hill, and coming back via the waterfall.

We climbed up steep steps to see the stone pillars, and then up a quiet back-road that continued to climb steeply away from the river.

It goes without saying that when we reached what should have been the footpath to take us back over to the falls, it wasn’t there, so we simply turned around and headed back the way we’d come.

It was though, a peaceful walk that took us past relics of what seems to have been, a thriving agricultural background , with little metal rails and carts that would have allowed access to the almost vertical terraces, on the now overgrown south-facing slopes.

We tried to imagine what they would have grown there,  as it seemed it must be an inhospitable environment, in the winter months. The only thing we could see were banks of camellias, with tiny white flowers, so wondered if it may have been some type of tea planation, but we haven’t been able to find out.

As we were walking back, Andy spotted a particularly beautiful butterfly feeding on plants close to the road. Most butterflies we’ve seen have been too fast for us to take a photo, but this one was utterly absorbed with its feast, and we watched it for a while.

it was exquisitely fine, with delicately lined wings and a beautiful body. We have since found out is is a Common Mapwing, although there was nothing ‘common’ about it at all.

On the way back, we passed beehives, with the bees busy at work..

And then dropped down a path back into the Gorge and on to the waterfall.

It was really very beautiful, probably our favourite so far. A chute of water flying over the edge of a rock & cascading down into the turquoise pool below.

Bizarrely, at the waterfall site, the rock is a dark red, a stark contrast to the rocks in the Gorge, which had been white and pale grey.

It is said that after heavy rain, the water looks red, as it hurtles over the falls, like a Dragon’s Breath. It must be magnificent.

After admiring the Falls, we wandered back down the paths, and took advantage of the nice Onsen, next to the river, before heading on again.

However much we want to explore the mountainous heartland of Shikoku, we are keenly aware that our large van would be a liability on the roads, so we had a rethink of the next few days, and set off towards the coast near Kochi, from where we will be able to find good roads into the next part of the island that we want to visit.

So tonight, we’re on a park-up, next to the sea, just along the coast, and have spent the evening watching the fishing boats potter backwards and forwards, in search of the shoals.

It’s a lovely spot, and when we arrived, we hadn’t even parked properly, when we noticed an Osprey circling just in front of us. We’ve only seen one other on this trip, when we cycled near Takaya Shrine, but here was one fishing in front of us.

They are spectacular birds and we watched it wheel around, before plummeting down, into the sea and flying off with its supper. I’ve not seen anything like it before and it was a real privilege to be able to watch it at such close quarters.

Once parked, we discovered that the park-up is also home to  a collection of stray cats. they were being doted on by a couple, who were feeding them, and paying them all the attention they needed.

We spoke to the couple, and they said there are 8 cats here and they come every day to feed them and care for them.

The are clearly very happy cats, and have made the parking area their own, so we have a bit of company tonight.

You can watch A video postcard from today here

With the early start again today, I have a feeling we’ll be asleep before 9 again tonight, but if I’m honest, we’re really rather enjoying it!