Vaucluse Dreamer

Yesterday’s walk to the Takaya Shrine left us a bit weary last night, but we had a little wander around the Observation Deck to one side of the parking, before settling into our chairs and just watching the boats make their way through the bay, below us.

There is something rather wonderful about an ever-changing view like this one, from the parking spot at the top of Mount Shiude, and there is nothing nicer than to simply sit and watch life pass by, with just the soundtrack of birds and insects to keep us company.

As the sun set, the colours shifted and the lights on Honshu, just the far side of the waterway, started bursting into life, adding a new dimension to the view. We just sat and watched it all evening, until I was sent scurrying inside after hearing 2 large animals fighting in the woodland, just above us. I’m sure they were wild boars, but it was still a disturbing sound.

It was a gentle, peaceful and rather lovely way to unwind, and relax, after our memorable walk. We slept heavily, not disturbed by anything, until just before 6, when I woke and noticed the colours creeping around the edges of the blinds. 

The sun was rising, and the sky was clearly a fierce orange, around the heavy grey clouds that had rolled in during the night. The colours were rather lovely, but perhaps didn’t bode well for good weather, today.

By the time we were dressed, and we had our yoga mats out, the colours had faded, but there was still a ribbon of gold, beyond the clouds over the inland sea, as we sat outside with our first coffee of the day.

We passed an hour (or perhaps slightly more), just captivated by the view, with the wooded islands acting as obstacles for the boats to manoeuvre between. It’s amazing to see the size of some of the boats that make their way through this channel, with vast container ships, passing small fishing vessels on the way through, and tugs pulling barges across the water, between them all..

To be honest, I think I could have sat there all day, but we prised ourselves away and took a short walk up to the Observation Deck, a few hundred metres from the parking spot.

The path took us through hydrangea gardens, with cherry trees growing across the summit too. It is one of the big ‘cherry blossom’ sites in Japan, and we could see why. With the cherry blossoms and the views, it must be spectacular, although, I know we wouldn’t have the car park to ourselves then, as you have to reserve a parking space in advance. It must be like Brighton on a Bank Holiday, when it’s Spring.

At the summit is another Observation Deck, with yet more stunning views out across the water

And back down to the bridges that we had crossed yesterday.

And along the coast toward the most western bridge, where we will be heading tomorrow.

We had aleady decided that we enjoyed our night here, so much that we wanted to stay here again tonight, and we would spend the day taking a bike ride around the headland following a very short section of the ‘Round Shikoku Cycle Route.

The weather forecast suggested that there would be showers, and the heavy clouds seemed to confirm that, but we drove down to the coast, unloaded the bikes and set off.

The road follows the coast, and although it is a main road, it was incredibly quiet, and just got more peaceful, the further we pedalled. It took us up and down the hills, passing beautiful little fishing villages and coves along the way.

With orange groves, occasional palm trees, and stunning, uninterrupted views of the golden sand beaches, it was a lovely ride, with all that acting as a distraction from the short, punchy little climbs, along the way.

We can’t even begin to imagine how busy a road like that would be in the UK, or France, but here we were passed by a couple of cars and a tiny delivery van that sounded more like a moped than anything else. We felt on our own on the road, and could just pedal and enjoy the ride.

Once we passed the turning for Mount Shiude, where we are staying, the road became a single lane and we dropped in and out of working fishing villages, as we made our way out to the furthest point on the headland.

The views were wonderful, with glimpses along the coast, through the islands that are scattered throughout the sea, and back toward the bridges we had crossed yesterday.

We pedalled past a number of Shrines,

Stopping at one, where there was a large red Tori Gate, at the top of a flight of stone steps that led down towards the beach.

Of course, we had to stop, so pulled the bikes off the road, and made our way down the 70+ steps to more Tori Gates that led to a pretty Shrine just behind the sea-wall. The roof was exquisite, with intricately carved ridge, that seemed to depict a sea serpent in a battle with a clawed creature.

We walked back up the 70 steps (Japan does have a lot of steps), and carried on, passing areas where the vibrant purple and blue ‘Morning Glory’ flowers were covering the trees

And others where the verges were a blaze of colour with Asters and what appeared to be a wild Verbena too.

It was a lovely way to pass the morning, until we arrived on the outskirts of Takuma, when cars and lorries seemed to appear from nowhere, and we went from the peace of a quiet coast road, to feeling as if we were cycling along a motorway.

So we stopped, re-jigged the planned route and made our way back through a little pass, across the neck of the headland, and back to the van.

It was a shame about the ride into Takuma, as it took the edge off what would otherwise have been a perfect ride, but the route around the headland was very special indeed.

Of course, despite all the warnings of rain, we hadn’t got wet at all, and the clouds had cleared away, leaving a wonderful, bright blue sky.

So after a quick change, and throwing another load of washing in the machine at the laundrette, we took a walk along the beach.

The beaches here are stunning, and this was soft, golden sand, which in places, seemed to be moving. In fact, it wasn’t the sand that was blowing, but hundreds of tiny crabs that darted away, dropping into holes that covered the beach.

Around the holes and the whole area were tiny balls of sand, which seemed to have been created by the crabs. We have since found out that they are ‘Bubble Crabs; and they were certainly very entertaining to watch, as we waited for the washing to finish.

After a trip to the Onsen, we’re back at the parking spot on Mount Shiude tonight, spending the evening just watching the water, as we did last night.

The sun has set now and the lights are starting to blink into life across the water, and having just seen a ferry come through, we’ve discovered that there are 6 different ferry routes that cross the water below us.

You can watch a little video from today here

It may not be everyone’s idea of an evening’s entertainment, but with the view we have here, we feel we have the best seats in the house!