Vaucluse Dreamer

I’m sitting on the terrace of the apartment that we booked for the night, typing this, after a truly superb day on the bikes.

If I had to sum up today’s ride in three words, they would be exhausting, exhilarating and magical.

It was always going to be a big ride, as when we were doing the route planning, we struggled to find hotels or apartments on the way through to Zaragoza. So ultimately, the route was dictated by where we could find places to stay, and having found a lovely little place in Beteta, we set a route for there.

I think I mentioned in an earlier post that the parcours for this one has been playing on my mind. Last year, we couldn’t see what was ahead, relying on maps with no contour lines and no tech to give us the details on what we were doing. Loading our planned routes onto Komoot this time has been a great move, apart from I know exactly what we will be facing. Today’s ride was going to be 115km, with 1800m of climbing, with nasty 20% ramps very close to the end. It wasn’t something that I was particularly excited about.

But from the moment we left Pastrana, as the sun was just starting to rise, turning the hilltops gold, it has been amazing. Exhausting yes, but amazing.

We set out, climbing very gently up a wide river valley, with early birdsong being all that we could hear. It was chilly and I had to wear my jacket, just to stay warm until the sun started to rise above the hills.

Then a wonderful, sinewy downhill riding through olive trees, scaring 4 deer that were grazing by the side of the road, which leapt and ran off as we passed by

The road was smooth and the views were beautiful

Then, we turned off to follow the old road, taking us towards Sacedon. Here the road was pitted and rough, but the way it took us was incredible, cycling over an ancient stone bridge across a mirror-like lake..

Before we started to climb up an old road at the base of incredible water-worn cliffs. It really was totally unexpected and really rather beautiful..

In all our planning, we knew that places we would be able to buy food today were very few and far between, and as there was no restaurant showing as open in Beteta this evening, we knew that we had to plan to carry stuff for lunch and supper. As the only supermarket on the way was at the small town of Sacedon, we headed there. After a quick visit, we added bread, ham & cheese (lunch) and a bag of spaghetti, a pasta sauce and lardons to the already weighed down bikes and continued on.

From Sacedon, we had to ride along the main road for a while and again were taken aback at how respectful the drivers were, giving us so much space when they passed. It was a long and steep climb, almost made worse by the fact that it was straight, so we could see just how much was ahead. The pasta, sauce and lunch didn’t really help!

But all of a sudden (ok after a bit of a slog), we crested the hill and the view opened up in front of us, and what a view it was too. We swept down through the bends and turned off at the bottom, taking a peaceful and beautiful road that ran across the head of a lake

And along a valley, where the route was edged with sunflower fields, as far as the eye could see. A month or so ago, this must have been a magical sight, although today they were all well past the best, their heavy seed heads facing the ground, as if they haven’t got the energy to look up for a minute longer.

The undulating road was a joy and we passed shepherds walking their flocks of sheep, commenting on simply how much open space there is in this beautiful country.

Before long we were turning again and heading on the road, which would take us to Beteta, stopping in a field at the top of a climb to eat our lunch. It was like a mid-summer day, and we lay in the stubble, listening to the birds, happy that at least we were carrying a little less now for the ride on.

We followed the road, which passed a couple of sleepy villages, climbing through the contours, with stunning views in all directions..

But despite lunch, a little further on, I started to feel weary, a little drop in energy, not helped by the thought of what was to come. I was almost out of water too and we hadn’t seen anywhere to either stop at a bar, or buy water to top up our bottles.

Then, just when we really needed it, we noticed a garage ahead, which was open. It was like an oasis in the desert & we pulled into the forecourt, bought water & 2 ice cold, full-fat Cokes, then sat in shade on a wall by a water tap, enjoying the cooling breeze. It was a realm for both mins, body and soul! The coke slipped down like a fine wine, boosting our energy and reviving my legs too.

I was so pleased that we’d found it, as it meant I was able to fully enjoy the rest of the ride to Beteta, which took us on one of the most spectacular roads, I’ve ever ridden.

We cycled through a gorge, with high cliffs on either side and a crystal clear river flowing through the bottom. The sound of water spilling over rocks was calming, and we appeared to be just about the only people on the road to enjoy it.

It was almost like being on a cycle path, with just the occasional car passing us as we made our way through this magical place.

The only things keeping us company on the road were the truly majestic Vultures circling in the bright blue sky above us.

There wasn’t just the occasional one, but upwards of 30, patrolling the sky above the cliffs, circling and swooping, their vast wings looking even bigger, when their shadows followed them along the cliffs.

They really are magnificent birds, and it was such a privilege to be able to watch them in this truly incredible environment. Happily after the coke, I now felt that I wouldn’t just be another carcass for them to enjoy too.

The road continues in this way, climbing gently through woodland, with occasional dips, allowing us to rest our legs a little. In many ways, it reminded us of cycling up Mont Ventoux…

After dropping into a rather industrial little village, with a hydro-electric station, we started to climb again. Happily, I was totally unaware that this was actually the bit I’d been dreading.

I had to stop a couple of times to have a drink and a gel, my legs weary after the day’s ride and still worried about what was to come. But then it was over & we skimmed along the road with gentle inclines & wonderful little descents. The air was cool and refreshing & it was simply blissful. All of a sudden, we were 3 km from Beteta and I realised that where I’d stopped had actually been the bit I’d been dreading.

At the entrance to the village, we found another garage, so we bought a bottle of beer and climbed the steep road into the village, arriving at our apartment and finding ourselves in a lovely little place with a stunning view from the terrace.

As I’ve been typing this, listening to the soft tones of sheep bells in the valley below, Andy has been busy in the kitchen and the pasta, sauce and lardons has proved to be a supper fit for a king (and queen). We’ve demolished the lot, and enjoyed the beer too, watching the sunset.

I have a feeling we’ll sleep well tonight.

Tomorrow, we head on to Daroca, another long day but with a little less climbing, so that will feel as good as a rest!

As with last year’s ride, we’re having a great time and using it as an opportunity to raise some funds for our local Restos Du Coeur in Apt. So if you’re enjoying following our journey and would like to support this much-needed and well-used organisation then you can  Donate via this link

Thanks