Vaucluse Dreamer

People often ask me what is my favourite part of France, thinking it’s probably the easiest question to answer, and that I will simply say Provence. If only it was that easy, and in many ways, the last few days away has made it even more difficult.

It probably seems a little odd, going on holiday to a different part of France, when we live in an area that so many people dream of visiting. But the simple fact is that France has so much to offer. It doesn’t matter how long we have been here, or how much we travel around, we are always finding new places that make us smile, and others that we simply want to return to again and again.

Last year’s long bike ride down was a case in point. We revisited so many places that we have loved over the years, and at the same time discovered some exceptionally beautiful areas that we hadn’t visited before. Our night in the Marais Breton was one of the high points of the ride, staying in the peace of the marshes surrounded by nothing but birds and beauty.

This little break away is very similar, in that we are staying in places that we have come to love over the years. Spending time immersed in the history of the Dordogne valley, with its prehistoric sites and stunning chateaux…

And staying in places that we hadn’t heard of before, and as a result stumbling across some gems. One being the utterly charming village of Saint Jean de Cole, where we’re staying for the next few nights. But more of that in a minute.

Our few nights in the Dordogne Valley allowed us to revisit so many memories, from holidays that we took together, nearly 40 years ago (just where have the years gone). Also from family holidays, when the boys were young, and the caves, castles and canoes provided hours of child-friendly entertainment.

After our day’s ride up into the hills above Sarlat, we spent the next day Walking up to Domme , the beautiful bastide village, sitting high on a rocky promontory above the river.

We first visited the village in 1989, and although it is more manicured and polished than it was then, the view has hardly changed at all. The sight of the river snaking through the valley below is simply stunning and is one that I’ll never tire of. More about the view here

When we first visited, we stayed at The Hotel Esplanade and I vividly remember a sense of falling, when the owner threw open the shutters, overlooking the view. Then as we watched a tourist plane rising up to the village from the valley, the hilarity of hearing the American occupant of the neighbouring room shouting (please use your best american accent here)  ‘Daisy, Daisy, get on out here Daisy. There’s a plane and it’s coming straight into our room. Daisy!!!’ I still don’t know if Daisy ever got to the window, but it still makes us snigger, all these years on.

We’ve stayed at the hotel a couple of more times since, most recently, when we drove Fifi down from the UK, at the start of her french adventure. Unfortunately, our dream of arriving in the square, in our beautiful little classic car was dashed, when her (brand new, but wrong) clutch collapsed, with a bang and a puff of smoke, in the carpark at Brantome.

But revisiting these places has been an absolute joy and exploring by bike has added a whole new level of enjoyment (although the 14% climbs may not be revisited for a while)

We spent our last morning in the valley, cycling around some of the famous chateaux and villages , on a delightful loop that took us along the river to Castelnaud…

Before heading on towards Saint Cyprien and  back through Beynac

Visiting La Roque Gageac too. The perfect way to end our stay in the valley, before heading on again.

We had booked our next few nights in a village that we haven’t visited before, higher up in the Perigord towards Angouleme & Limoges. On our way, we stopped opposite the Chateau De La Losse , sitting in the riverbank with a picnic lunch, before continuing to our next stop at Saint Jean de Cole.

We had booked the stay here, as we liked the look of the village, which like Roussillon & Gordes, is classed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. The house we had chosen to stay in, looked really rather charming too.

Arriving, we found ourselves in a truly magical place. A medieval, rose-filled village, with exquisite buildings and a peace, that oozed from every stone. To say we were blown away by its charm is an understatement, with its stunning chateau and ancient market hall, old mill and 12th century cobbled bridge over the river.

We used to live on the edge of the Cotswolds in England, and this little village felt like a mix of Lacock, Castle Combe and Biddestone, all in one place. The elegant and unique houses  overlook the river and village square, with roses of all colours climbing up the walls.

Then in the side streets are half-timbered homes, built at odd angles that almost defy logic, but add to the charm and beauty of this wonderful little village, which really does earn its place as one of ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France’.

We dragged ourselves away from its charms, hopping on our bikes to Ride out on a loop around Brantome , to finally lay the ghost of the last time we were there, collecting Fifi, after her devastating clutch collapse.

It was a delightful ride, especially after the (at times) brutal ramps on the climbs around Sarlat. Here, we found ourselves on almost empty, ribbons of smooth tarmac, winding our way through pretty, verdant, rolling hills, and quiet villages.

Arriving in the bustle of Brantome, we managed to find a perfect place for a second breakfast, before walking through the town to the river, to gaze at the old abbey buildings & ancient bell tower,which is reputed to be the oldest in France.

It is a lovely place to visit, and was a regular stopping-off place for us on our trips down to the Dordogne, so again it was nice to revisit old memories, whilst listening to the gentle sound of the bells tolling midday. See more here ….

We sat for a while, enjoying the atmosphere, before heading home, pottering back along empty roads, to Saint Jean de Cole, where we sat for a while, before taking one of the well marked walks that head out from the village.

Coming back to where I started, at the beginning of this post. We now have a new favourite, as this village has quickly found a little bit of space in our hearts, and I’m not sure I can think of anywhere else we’ve visited that has this level of peace and charm. Perhaps it will be our favourite place to sit by a river, and watch the water flow past, whilst listening to the swifts screaming, as they dart around the rooftops (with the odd friendly cat for company too)

That’s the thing with favourites, they can be what you want them to be, and it always leaves you open to find new ones, however you decide to frame them.

Let’s see if we find any more, whilst we’re away..