Vaucluse Dreamer

The last two days in Sorrento have been sublime. By the time we hopped on the ferry this morning to head across the bay to Naples, we were wishing we hadn’t booked the next couple of nights in Rome. We just wanted to stay.

It is at least 18 years since we last visited Sorrento, having stayed there one October when the boys were very young. We have always wanted to return and we weren’t disappointed

Flying into Naples, we managed to catch the little bus from the airport that brought us directly to the train station in Sorrento, on a route that skirted the base of Mount Vesuvius, before taking the twisting road towards the town.

It was nice to let someone else drive this bit of road, as it was just as hairy as I remember it to be, horns blaring, scooter riders dicing with death and even a cyclist not flinching as cars passed within centimetres of his elbow. But we made it in one piece and stepped off the bus into Spring.

Walking down from the station, we started to pull off our layers. We had dressed warmly for the early morning walk through Paris, but had arrived in weather that was as warm as an English summer’s day. The sky was an unbroken, cobalt blue and it was beautiful.

The road to the centre of town was lined with orange trees, all heavy with fruit; their dark green leaves and vibrant fruits unexpectedly bright after having spent 2 days in the city. Turning a corner, a Bougainvillea was a tumble of purple flowers across the top of an old wall too. It was so wonderfully colourful after the winter days in Provence.

After dropping our bags in the apartment and taking off another layer, we walked down the steep steps and ramp, that take you down the cliffs behind the town’s garden, leading to the port. You can take the lift, but after sitting on a plane and bus, we just wanted to stretch our limbs, and enjoy the view across the Bay of Naples, which is utterly breathtaking.

In the summer, the area below the cliffs is filled with bars and restaurants, which sit on piers over the water, but at this time of year the ironwork is bare; the wooden decks packed away for the winter, hidden under tarpaulins, waiting for the season to return. So instead of the buzz and chatter of diners, there is just the lapping of water against the stones to break the silence.

We wandered through to the dock, where we sat on a bench, with our faces turned to the sun, like early season lizards trying to warm themselves in the first sun of spring. We watched the ferries for Naples and Capri come and go, only moving when the sun disappeared behind the headland and a chill returned.

It had been quiet down on the quay, so we were rather surprised walking into town for supper that the main street was busy with people, shopping, chatting and simply strolling. I have no idea where they had been earlier as the town had seemed quiet. We suddenly felt decidedly underdressed, as everyone was elegant and looking chic, whilst I was in my jeans, comfy boots and old, but warm padded jacket that I had bought from a market stall in L’Isle Sur La Sorgue 7 years ago.

This was very clearly the passeggiata, the traditional late afternoon, early evening walk that locals take before heading off to dinner. But what a place to take a stroll, with the backdrop of the hills behind the town turning pink with the setting sun, and the music of a talented saxophonist, reverberating around the street.

We may not have been dressed for the occasion, but we took our time people-watching and soaking up the atmosphere, as we ambled along the pedestrianised main street, and into the network of narrow lanes, before finding somewhere for supper.

After an early start and a busy day of travelling, we were tucked up in bed and snoring gently again just after 9, probably before many people had even sat down for supper. We really aren’t party animals!

The following morning we woke refreshed and bright, opening the shutters to another cloudless blue sky. We had originally planned to take the train to Pompeii and spend the day exploring the Roman sites there and at Herculaneum. But over coffee, we chatted and decided that they could wait until another time (we will definitely be back) and would look at taking a walk around the area instead.

A quick trip into the local Tourist Office and we came away with a free map of the walking routes around the town, so sat with breakfast, the map and Google Maps deciding which route to take. We settled on one that would take us on a circular route up into the hills above the town through the village of S. Agata.

We set off, walking through the town, picking up a narrow trail that took us up steps, crossing the main road to the Amalfi Coast, before heading up a steep, hairpin lane that climbed quickly away from Sorrento.

We soon found ourselves on old tracks, laid with flagstones, either side of a cobbled central path, which I can only imagine would have been to allow donkeys to keep their footing, whilst allowing the cartwheels to roll freely..

The tracks climbed up through olive groves, before passing through areas filled with orange and lemon trees, their branches laden with fruits that looked stunning against the blue sky..

Whilst the ground below the trees was a carpet of wild flowers, already alive with bees in the warm spring sun.

It was a glorious (and at times steep) walk up, with incredible views across Sorrento and the bay, with the sea glinting in the light below. It was hard at times to stay focused on the path ahead..

Eventually we arrived in the pretty little village of S.Agata, found a café and sat outside with a coffee and a lemon-scented gelato. The perfect mix after a warm, uphill walk.

We sat in the sun, watching the bustle of lunchtime as cars stopped, only to be whistled on by the local policeman, and friends caught up as they dashed in to buy bread. I could have stayed there all day.

But we had to head back, so chose a route that switch-backed down a steep route back to the town. It was worth it though, as the views were jaw-droppingly beautiful and we found ourselves stopping at almost every turn to take it all in.

We also soon had a companion, with a very friendly dog tagging along for the walk, making his own way back down to Sorrento, but sticking close to us to take in the views as we went. It was all very companionable, although he soon went his own way as we approached the town.

Back in Sorrento, we bought bits for a very late lunch picnic and pottered down to sit on a bench in the port, enjoying the peace and relaxation after our morning’s hike. A little chat from our afternoon view here

It was the perfect way to spend a couple of hours, just listening to the water lapping against the dock, watching the ferries arrive, bringing scores of people that snaked their way off behind tour guides, before the peace returned. See the route of our walk on Komoot here

It was whilst we were sitting there that we changed our plans for today. Watching the ferries come and go whet our appetite to take the boat to Naples, to explore the old city for the day, before heading on to Rome this afternoon. Pompeii can wait until our next visit (as we’ve already decided that we’ll be back sooner rather than later)

So we ended the day with an evening walk around the town, heading down into the old Marina, with its beautiful view, across the old boats to the sparkling lights of Naples, and the looming majesty of Vesuvius.

As I took a photo there was the flash of a shooting star above the old volcano, so I made a wish that we’ll be back in Sorrento before another 18 years pass (with a few other wishes thrown in for good measure) and hopefully they’ll all come true.

This morning, we took the ferry as planned and after a calm trip, we had Naples firmly in our sights and were looking forward to a few hours exploring, before taking the afternoon train to Rome and the next stop on our little trip.

I think it would be fair to say that Naples came as a bit of a shock after the peace, open spaces, beauty and views of Sorrento. As we left the ferry and walked into the heart of the old town, we disappeared into the warren of narrow streets, buildings covered in graffiti and rubbish everywhere we turned.

Like everyone, we had read descriptions of the city as dirty, and had heard tales of the traffic too, remembering how sketchy it had been, when we drove through the outskirts 18 years ago, but surely it must have improved. Recently we have read of a more vibrant city, culturally exciting with lots to explore and enjoy.

I’m afraid to say that we didn’t find it. The narrow streets with the tall buildings either side are incredible, clearly based on the ancient Roman footprint. The washing hanging from every balcony was as I had imagined it to be, although seeing someone’s underwear hanging over the small square in front of a pretty church in the heart of the old town felt a little bit risky for worshippers who may be passing below.

The streets that had been mentioned in articles were filled with tourist shops, with models of Maradonna (yes the footballer) in every form possible, the flags of the local football team stretching between the buildings too.

After an overload of kitsch nik-naks, we saw the entrance to San Lorenzo Maggiore and underground Naples, so popped inside. Stepping into the beautiful courtyard behind the stone walls, we walked into a haven of peace.

The ancient buildings with their beautifully decorated walls and ceilings giving us an insight into the wealthy past of the city and its religious sites.

But it was the area under the Basilica and other buildings that fascinated us. The beautifully preserved Roman market, city treasury and workshops. It was a collection of beautifully preserved Roman vaulted buildings, and helped us understand what was above us, a little more.

Heading back out, we walked past shops that were reminiscent of the Roman ones we had seen below the surface. Small shop fronts, onto narrow lanes with their goods spilling into the street. No more so than when we ambled into an area filled with fish and fruit shops. It was like nowhere else we’ve seen recently.

We ambled for a few hours, as the time passed before we were due to catch our train to Rome, looking for somewhere to sit and simply watch the world pass by. Yet the only place we could find was by a statue in the centre of a busy roundabout near the station. Not really what we had in mind.

I usually look for, and find positives wherever we go, but I just didn’t connect with Naples on any level at all. I know we can’t love everywhere we go, in fact we’d be a bit weird if we did. But this time, I can honestly say that we won’t be going back in a hurry (if at all).

Next time we’ll just make Sorrento our base and admire Naples from the other side of the bay. It looks nice from there.

That said, aside from this morning the last 2 days in Sorrento have been so much fun and we’re already planning our return.

But for now, we’re on a very fast train (297km/h) heading to Rome for the next stage of our trip…

So tomorrow should be lovely.