Vaucluse Dreamer

If yesterday was a good day on the bikes, then today has been even better, and quite emotional too.

We woke early, as we knew we had a long day ahead and left the beautiful and very comfortable Chambre D’Hote before breakfast, being seen off by the donkeys and emu, in the garden … Yes it really was that lovely

It was a beautiful morning, with a gorgeous golden light, as we set off along the lanes fringed with cow parsley and foxgloves, taking a route around Redon, to avoid the main roads (there are many!) And stumbling across the memorial to a battle which saw Brittany secure its independence in 845 … Something I didn’t know about at all

The roads were peaceful and even the cows looked surprised to see us, following us as we rode past their fields. Once again, we had the wind in our faces, but it didn’t matter. We are in France, the sun is shining and we are cycling together along the sort of roads that we love to ride along.

After just over an hour, we arrived in a pretty village, which happened to have a Boulangerie almost next to the local bar. Our stomachs were now reminding us that we had missed breakfast, so we bought pastries and sat in the bar with coffee, taking stock of where we were heading next.

The big plan for the day was to aim to cross The Loire and make our way towards the coast, where we will be staying tonight. I say big plan, as this is a huge milestone in the ride.

I remember when the boys crossed The Loire, on their ride 7 years ago. I was at the market in Gordes, when Andy called to say they were on the ferry in 40 degrees of heat, and I felt emotional then, as it felt like a huge landmark had been reached, and I had a feeling it would be the same again today.

It was quite a ride out crossing some busy roads and finding that some of the roads, we had imagined would be empty, were actually quite busy, as they headed towards main intersections on the majot roads that criss-cross the area. In fact, having planned a route, we changed it whilst sitting having a drink, as we saw lorry after lorry taking the road we had chosen. A quick re-jig of the route worked perfectly and we pottered out along empty roads, which proved to be only a few kilometres longer than the one we had originally planned, but infinitely more pleasant.

As we headed towards The Loire, we pottered through pretty villages, with some incredible churches and on the gently undulating open roads, were serenaded by birdsong, with the heady scent of Honeysuckle on the breeze. Honestly, it was just wonderful.

We had decided to take the ferry across the river, avoiding the huge bridges at Nantes and Saint Nazaire, which are singularly unpleasant, even in a car. The ferry, which runs about every 10 minutes crosses from Coueron to Le Pellerin and is funded by the Department, so is free to use and offers a great, safe way to cross the river.

As we approached, we bought sandwiches in Coueron and cycled onto the quay, where bikes and pedestrians take priority and we watched the ferry dock, before wheeling the bikes on board.

I know this will sound a bit ridiculous, but I felt so emotional as I walked on board. This was a huge milestone, we have cycled from East Devon, across Dartmoor and ridden across the beautiful region of Brittany. It’s the furthest I’ve ever ridden in such a short period of time and if I’m honest, I really wasn’t sure that I would be able to do it.

So we sat in the boat, enjoyed the short crossing and then found a bench under the trees, where we could eat our lunch and watch the ferry shuttle backwards and forwards, doing our Daily update

Crossing the river, it felt as if we had moved to another country. The slate roofs and granite buildings have changed, with all the houses having terracotta tiles and a much more golden stone. It also seemed much hotter, and we heard the tyres squelching as we rode over tarmac that had melted in the heat.

From there we pottered on through a beautiful expanse of salt marshes, with water filled ditches and pans, and the sight of Egrets taking flight, disturbed by our passing, towards our destination for the night, happy that we have got so far, feel good and are still smiling as we ride.

Tonight we have been offered accommodation and supper in a beautiful little place in the middle of the salt marshes, with no sound other than birdsong and spectacular views across the flat, wildlife-filled land … What a stunning and peaceful spot for the night and such lovely company too

Today saw us ride a total of 126 km and climb a paltry 1060 metres, which after the last few days felt like hardly anything at all See the route here

Tomorrow, all being well we will make good ground towards La Rochelle, with the promise of a day off when we get there …. That alone should keep my legs turning!