Vaucluse Dreamer

Andy’s idea of changing our route to have a day off in Rochefort didn’t really appeal to begin with. It was always a place that we had passed on the motorway, whilst on our way to the Ile D’Oleron, and I just had memories of a big bridge and unattractive outskirts, which didn’t put it high on my list of places to visit.

But, when we had cycled along the river 2 years ago, when we couldn’t take the Transporter Bridge, as it was closed for lunch, I’d been taken by surprise by the old ropeworks and Arsenal area. So perhaps it was worth a second look, and I could finally realise my long-held wish to cross the river on the Transporter. So a day off in the town may not be too bad.

As soon as we arrived though, I realised that Rochefort is a stunning town, with beautiful houses lining almost traffic-free streets. The central square is a calm, open space and we settled in, relaxing immediately. On our day off yesterday, we had a gentle day wandering through the market, before walking out to take the Transporter Bridge, finally scratching that itch.

It is an incredible structure, built at the end of the 19th century to take people and produce across the Charente, replacing an old ‘ferry’. It was then the only crossing point on the route between La Rochelle and Royan, carrying cars until 1967 (the year I was born)

Apparently, it used to carry up to 12 cars, which would have made a huge difference to travel time between the towns, but would have soon been well over capacity, especially noticing the amount of traffic on the new bridge, just beyond it,

But for me, it was a delight to be able to walk on and be carried silently and gently across the river and back, with a broad grin on my face. I really shouldnt get excited about such little things at my age!

And we bought our crossing tickets for us and the bikes to be used today, on our way on towards Angouleme.

We spent the afternoon continuing to explore this beautiful town, and just enjoying a rest, before we returned to the Arsenal in the evening for the Son et Lumiere event Oceana Lumina.

We had noticed an advert for it, hanging on the front of the Hotel de Ville, so had booked tickets as it looked rather good. It really was.

A 1.2km trail that took us on a journey with early explorers, all based around the Corderie, which was used as a perfect backdrop for most of the event.

It was colourful

Engaging

And thoughtful, all at the same time

And the final show in the old dry dock was a perfet end to a superb evening.

We wandered back through the quiet streets and after a good night’s sleep in the peaceful heart of this beautiful place, were ready to head on again.

We got up early and enjoyed breakfast at a café in the square, before pedalling out to catch the 10am transporter bridge crossing (the first of the day)

Taking the bikes across the river on the flying carpet was just a great way to start the ride, especially as we watched others cycling over the busy road bridge, just beyond

Once we pedalled off, we made our way through the salt-marshes towards the ancient and rather beautiful old port of Brouages. It’s an incredible place, and when first built in 1555 it was a strategic port and a major trading point for local salt.

The sea has long-since retreated and the port now sits proud in the middle of the marshes. The original defensive walls still circle the village, which is now filled with galleries, shows and restaurants. A far cry from its defensive past, but a wonderful place to explore, and now classed as one of ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France’.

We ambled the walls and pottered into the shops, finding a beautiful piece of silver for work, whilst we were there too. Who says business and pleasure don’t mix?

But time was ticking by, and however much we fancied staying just a few minutes more, we had to move on, cycling to our next stop at Bourcefranc le Chapus, where we stopped for lunch.

Although we very nearly didn’t have any lunch, as all the boulangeries had closed and I managed to dash into the CoOp, 1 minute before it was due to close, dashing round like a mad-woman, grabbing cheese, bread and biscuits so we had something to eat, after 30km of cycling!

At the tip of Bourcefranc is a causeway, accessible at low-tide, which leads out to the old Fort Louvois, built in the 17th century to form part of the defence system for the Arsenal at Rochefort

It is the little brother of Fort Boyard (between the Ile D’Oleron and the Ile D’Aix) and worked with the Citadel on the Ile D’Oleron to protect the channel leading to Rochefort.

Now it sits at the heart of the oyster-beds of Marennes, which are busy at low tide with the farmers dashing out in their flat-bottomed boats to turn their nets and harvest those that are ready. We have spent many hours watching them over the years and it always brings to mind the old saying ‘I like work, it fascinates me, I can sit and look at it for hours’

We sat on a wall and watched the boats, & the traffic  passing over the bridge to the Island, where we spent so many holidays when our boys were young, reminiscing about those simple family holidays, when an afternoon ambling along the Quay watching the trawlers land their catches, before heading into the fish auction to watch the sales too.

We could have let our memories take up the afternoon, but we had a camp site to get to, so pottered off, through Marennes to the site we’d booked at Saint Sornin.

We were last there in 1999, which is a very long time ago, but this evening took the walk we used to take them, up to the Tower on a small hill above the marshes to admire the view, with the setting sun over the abandoned  Stork nests, their occupants having recently started their long flight south..

We’ve had to have a rethink of the route this evening, as the weather is set to take a significant turn for the worse tonight and over the weekend.

 I know there are some that would say that we should be hardy and just get on with cycling and camping in the wet, but to be honest, that’s not what this ride is all about. So if we need to make a new route to Bordeaux, we will and equally if we need to stay in accommodation rather than a soggy tent, we will.do that too.

We’ve sorted out the next 2 days and are now fixed on getting to Angoulême for the rugby on Friday, when we’ll pull on our Provence shirts and shout for our team!