We had such a delightful day yesterday, ambling around the brocante stalls and shops in Pezenas, but we were ready to get back on the bikes again today.
When we were planning what to do this week, we had gone round in circles trying to decide whether simply to cycle from place to place each day, or use Pezenas as a base for a few days as time was so short.
In the end we plumped on booking the apartment in Pezenas for a few nights, as it meant we would be able to relax a little and we could do some nice rides (without the bags) around the area.
So last night after supper, we took out the maps and planned a ride that would take us out on a big loop around Beziers, allowing us to revisit the pretty village of Capestang, on the Canal du Midi, which had been one of our stops on our ‘Saddlebag of Memories’ ride through France this summer.
We woke again to clear skies, which meant it was a tad chilly on our bare arms and legs, as we cycled out through Pezenas rush-hour traffic, towards Tourbes, where we had decided to stop for breakfast.
Happily, the café had tables in the sun and we sat there, like lizards, munching croissants and enjoying coffee, whilst soaking up the morning heat, finally feeling warm and human, before cycling on again.
To begin with, we followed the same route that we had used in the summer (but in the opposite direction. It was a beautiful ride, through vineyards, along peaceful roads, with just birdsong and our chatter for company.
Then we took a different route, passing through pretty villages and crossing the main roads that head into Beziers, avoiding the traffic. I do love using the ViaMichelin map (historic maps setting) as it is so easy to see which are the busier roads, allowing us to plan another way round.
It was a beautiful, gently undulating road, with views across to the Herault hills on one side and expanses of vineyards towards the coast on the other. It was hard to believe that at times we were just a stone’s throw from the outskirts of Beziers.
Just before lunch, the road met the Canal Du Midi and we cycled past the moored boats, crossing the bridge and cycling into the beautiful central square, by the church in Capestang.
We were really charmed by the village when we stopped there in the summer and so we’re happy to have an excuse to visit again & sit under the shade of the plane trees, munching lunch from the rather excellent Boulangerie on the corner.
As we sat down the church bells rung to signal noon, so we had arrived in perfect time for a sit down. The village, which was built on the Roman Via Domitia, has a Collegiate Church, which is an incredible building, which can be seen for miles around. Built in the 13th century, on earlier Roman structures it is an instantly identifiable landmark, dominating the square. Whilst I was there today, I also noticed a plaque marking the events of 9th June 1944, when 179 men were assembled in the square to be deported by the German SS. There is so much history in this one small place
After lunch and our Little lunchtime update we cycled on again, following back roads through to Poilhes, where we met the Canal Du Midi again, cycling alongside it for a while, before we turned and headed down towards the coast, following a route that brought us on a big loop below Beziers.
It was harder here to find the little roads that we love, but we still found a few and we’re delighted when one of the busier roads had a fully protected cycle lane running alongside it, allowing us to potter along in safety as cars whizzed by.
We did follow the cycle path alongside the Canal Du Midi for a short distance…
Before it took us away from the waterway along back-roads passing huge camp sites and big amusement parks and water parks near Vias. Happily the camp sites are closed, so it was wonderfully quiet as we rode through, but in the height of the summer, it must be absolute madness.
The theme of the day seemed to be getting utterly lost in the narrow streets and complex one way systems in the villages that we passed through, with us having to double back on ourselves and wiggle our way through places, just to get to where we needed to be. Vias was no different and we were happy when we popped out the other side and found ourselves on a long, straight and quiet road to Bessan.
From here, we had found a lovely route back into Pezenas, stopping for a refreshing beer at a café just around the corner from the apartment.
A delightful day on the bikes, in the glorious October sunshine and 116km ridden.
We’ve certainly earned supper this evening
Vaucluse Dreamer 