Vaucluse Dreamer

After yesterday’s ride, and highly sophisticated supper of takeaway pizza and wine from paper cups, we slept like the dead, waking at just after 6, getting ready to go on again.

The first thing we did, was look at the weather forecast, which was still showing that there would be rare showers in the morning, with thunder storms hitting Carcassonne at 3pm. Knowing that it was going to be a long ride, and wanting to get there before the storm hit, we were packed up and on the road by 8am.

We had chosen the hotel well, as we joined the cycle path, outside the front door, which took us through the city alongside the canal, on a purpose-built cycle route, which (at rush hour) was packed with all types of bikes, with people going to work and school.

Whilst we were moving quickly through the heart of the city, the cars were at a standstill, and we quickly left them behind, as part of a steady stream of bikes, which was such a lovely experience.

After yesterday’s chain-break, we felt a little vulnerable, as we had no other quick-links left, but were saved when we spotted a cycle shop, just off the path. We popped over, and although the shop wasn’t really open, the owner let us in and found what we needed, which was very kind and absolutely perfect.

As we cycled out, the sky was a leaden grey and spots of rain were falling, and whereas we just carried on in our cycle jerseys, we passed others wearing ponchos, coats and even one chap cycling along, holding an umbrella, which was quite impressive.

We found our way through the city easily, heading out past beautiful houseboats moored along the edge of the canal….

Listening to the little green parakeets, which were playing in the trees around us. A sound we hadn’t heard since Plymouth.

After a while, the busyness of the city calmed a little, and we suddenly realised that the buildings had changed & we were cycling alongside the canal in more open countryside (although there was the ever-present sound of cars from the nearby motorway.

Pottering along the canal path today was a much more pleasant experience than yesterday. The path was well-made and the canal meandered along, much more akin to a river than the dead-straight path that we had been riding between Agen & Toulouse.

We quickly settled into a comfortable rhythm, watching the water slip by, with Herons taking flight as we passed. Once we had left the city behind, we stopped for breakfast, munching our pastries as we watched the occasional cyclist pass by.

The rain showers were still rippling through, but not enough to worry us and we rode happily along, watching the occasional boat pass by and stopping for a few minutes, watching one negotiating one of the locks, as we arrived.

The Canal has regular locks, each with their traditional ‘keeper’s cottage’ and we found that one had been converted into a café, so we stopped for coffee … As with yesterday, the coffee stops are few and very far between, so it’s always best to stop when you see one.

It was a nice place, packed with cyclists, although none had dared to disturb the resident cat, that clearly has its favourite cushion and wasn’t going to move for anyone. We enjoyed our coffee, chatting about the ride ahead, before going to collect the bikes and head on again.

As soon as I got back to my bike, I saw that my rain jacket, which had been strapped to my back carrier had disappeared. I knew it had been there, when we arrived as I had almost taken it in with me, as it was starting to rain, but had decided against it.

I wish I had, as someone had clearly taken a fancy to it, unstrapped it and taken it from my carrier. It was an old coat, which Andy had bought for me about 20 years ago, but it was like an old friend, having shared so many rides together and I was ridiculously upset over it.

I hope they took it because their need was greater than mine, although as Andy said in the Daily Update I’m too nice and he hopes that fleas infest the crotch of the person that took it! I know it’s not the end of the world, but on a day, when we knew we would be trying to outrun a storm, it was far from ideal timing!

We carried on along the canal to the point where it dives under the motorway and crosses into the neighbouring department. When Andy and the boys had done the ride, the path had changed at this point had become a narrow, bumpy, unmade path, which had caused them lots of problems and wasn’t something we fancied tackling on our roadbikes.

So instead of carrying on, we had found a route that would take us along quiet backroads to Castelnaudry. Once we left the canal, it felt as if a weight had been lifted off our shoulders and we quickly settled back into cycling along the roads, which is what we really love best.

We were back into gently rolling countryside, with beautiful views across to pretty villages, which looked lovely, even with the grey skies.

We stopped at Castelnaudry for lunch by the canal, before pottering on again. At first the back road was quiet, but after leaving Bram, it got a lot busier and with a fierce headwind, the cycling was quite tiring.

At one point we went down to join the Canal again, as the path looked gravelled and rideable, only to be told by another cyclist that this section was short-lived and a short distance further in, it became very narrow and stony. Not good for our bikes, he suggested. So a quick re-jig again, and I found a route that that would criss-cross the main road, but take us into Carcassonne along little back-lanes.

We set off, and it really was the perfect route, taking us through picture-postcard villages….

And through fields dotted with wildflowers, under what we’re now bright blue skies…

Then we heard the thunder, and whereas the sky towards Carcassonne was blue, the sky behind us was black with towering clouds, looking horribly ominous and moving towards us at a rate of knots.

We knew that we had to get to Carcassonne as quickly as possible, so abandoned the back route in and went onto the main D road towards the city. It was a mad, busy ride with the sound of thunder getting louder and our legs spinning faster.

The final arrival in Carcassonne was busy, chaotic and if I’m really honest, rather unpleasant, (especially as I had a weary little tumble from the bike, when I couldn’t unclip quickly enough). We found ourselves having to change lanes across busy roads, with cars seemingly uncertain of where they were heading too.

As we cycled down towards the town, the thunder was almost deafening behind us and we dashed into the first café we saw.

It was a perfect move, as minutes later the lightning started and then the rain, which was not like any rain we’ve seen before. It was a storm that sent everyone running for cover, with lightning strikes so close to us that they set the car alarms off.

The rain was amazing, as if the clouds were simply emptying themselves over the city, flooding the streets within minutes and threatening to overwhelm the drains. From where we were sitting, we watched the water pour from the Gargoyles on the side of a nearby church, water cascading to the floor in torrents, form their gaping mouths.

We couldn’t believe it. If we had been 10 minutes later, we would have been caught in this and I’m not sure what we would have done (not even my stolen coat would have helped me)

As it was, we sat with a beer and watched the storm unfold, cowering at the most violent lightning strikes that set alarms off & made the lights flash.

An hour later, the rain calmed enough for us to leave the café and head off to find our apartment for the night, just managing to buy bits for supper, before the next storm hit.

To be honest, we are very tired tonight, with the last couple of days of trying to outrun this stormy period having taken their toll. We had thought that we would head on to Pezenas tomorrow, where we would have another day off, but it feels a leap too far. So we will get there in 2 stages instead, having 2 days of shorter rides, so that we get there safely and can enjoy our day in the beautiful little town.

As it is, we have just totted up how far we’ve come and realise that we have already pedalled 1191 kilometres and have climbed 12540m

It’s hard to believe really, I never imagined we would get this far.

Time for bed, I think!